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Marui Hi-Capa - Kimber Custom TLE/RL II High Capacity
http://www.pbase.com/image/111195791/original.jpg
This build was based on a Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa due to the many reasons this platform can provide. Although not a direct 1911 replica, this replica is built on the Hi-Capa platform primarily due to the high ammo capacity and large gas resevoir this GBB can handle. The Kimber Custom TLE/RL II type of 1911 combat pistol has been issued to many law enforcement and military agencies worldwide. Many features, from its full 5-inch barrel, match grade components/barrel/bushing/chamber, extended thumb safeties, high ride beavertail grip safety, beveled magazine well, Kimber tactical rail for accessory mounting and match grade barrel for accuracy and long life all provide the many facets that make a Kimber pistol the most sought after service pistol throughout all levels of law & military enforcement, from standard police agencies all the way up to military operators performing in international theatres. The name "Kimber" carries the idealism and attitude of quite possibly the finest service firearms IN THE WORLD, and is the reason why I have chosen this name as the one among all to replicate, despite this pistol being built on a 2011 platform rather than a single stack 1911. Because of this, there are some glaring fundamental differences that will not make this an "accurate" model, but instead, the idea of the Kimber Custom TLE was carried over to this platform to create a new model. Out of the box, Kimber pistols are known to shoot accurately, consistently and precisely when you need it, every time you need it. There is a very specific reason why LAPD SWAT and USMC SOCOM DET-1 decided on the Kimber Custom II as their combat pistol of choice. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me and I sought to reach for those same characteristics in the combat pistols I was building for airsoft use, even if my life did not depend on it. --------------------------------------------------------- The designation "TLE" stands for "Tactical Law Enforcement", and the TLE is identical except for markings to a special model that was designed for use by the LAPD SWAT team. I wanted something very "tactical" for this build, which is why this line caught my eye as the starting point for this build. The Warrior and Desert Warrior are models based on a special version of the Custom that was built for the USMC SOCOM, known as the Kimber ICQB. Those models are quite special, and if I were to even attempt to build something like that, I'd do it proper with a single stack pistol for an even more accurate build (like the Kimber Warrior I've already built.) Wanting to keep it simple, I stuck with the standard TLE/RL II. The "RL II" designation indicates that this is a RAILED model, versus the standard Custom TLE which has no rail frame. Again, wanting a very tactical and practical model, being able to attach a light or laser aiming module was a requirement for this build. The integrated rail assures that a laser sight would not ever lose its zero due to any wobbling of a rail that is simply screwed on. Simple features such as front and rear serrations on the slide for fast and easy slide racking in any scenario and a smooth rounded top for a snag free, fast and smooth pistol draw are some of the beginning features that make this pistol so tactical and practical. http://www.pbase.com/image/111195765/medium.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...764/medium.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...763/medium.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...760/medium.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...761/medium.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...762/medium.jpg Colour matched grip and frame lead to multiple features that create a highly effective combat weapon. http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...6/original.jpg Integrated rail frame allows the attachment of light amplification modules and laser aiming modules to enhance and increase combat effectiveness of the weapon. http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...7/original.jpg An adjustable aluminum trigger allows the user to fine tune the trigger pull length to minimize the amount of pull required before the hammer breaks. This trigger is tuned to perform at peak levels. As far as this trigger is allowed to travel, it does 100% of its duty and the trigger break has already been tuned to trip with a solid and succinct break. Also, this trigger is combined with a custom trigger stirrup to take up and reduce all pre-slop associated with most trigger customization jobs. CNC wire cut from a single solid piece of 304 stainless steel, this custom trigger bow will not bend as easily as the original Marui unit. Also, because there is no break in the loop (like the original piece), this creates an extremely solid interface between the trigger and the sear. This trigger stirrup also has a feature that minimizes the distance that the trigger must be pulled before the sear/hammer breaks. http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...8/original.jpg The entire set up has been rounded out internally, with a high precision single stage steel hammer set that increases the trigger feel, hammer breaking point and hammer smoothness to create a uniquely smooth yet succinct "surprise break" that aids in increasing accuracy through prevention of flinching by the shooter. The combination of all of these harder metal components (trigger to stirrup to sear to hammer) all provide greatly increased feedback of the hammer feel directly to the shooter's finger, which aids in being able to pull off very fast and accurate double taps. http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...3/original.jpg This 1911 type barrel setup uses a unique straight barrel setup, very much like the standard 1911 to maintain a constant barrel position throughout the entire slide movement. Matched with ALL STAINLESS STEEL components, the barrel, barrel bushing, spring guide and spring guide plug all lend to a high performance set up. Match grade fitting between the slide to the barrel bushing to the outer barrel to the inner barrel results in absolute minimum movement between the components. This creates more accurate shots, as the inner barrel never strays far from where the sights are aligned. http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...0/original.jpg The entire setup has been combined with the practical and comfortable Tanio Koba "Fingerfits Tactical Grip", completely colour matched with the unique frame that matches with the Kimber "TLE/RL2" style markings. This grip provides accurate and consistent indexing of hand on grip positioning whenever drawing the pistol for fast and accurate target acquisition. Although it is not an accurate style for a Kimber build, this tactical grip is the only option any shooter should be using if building a tactical type of Hi-Capa build. http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...1/original.jpg A low profile magazine release button combined with a single sided safety lever provides the ultimate in low-profile handling. Final touches such as this complete it as the "high speed low drag" combat effective pistol that this build aims to be. http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...2/original.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...5/original.jpg Going further, the combat sights this pistol uses provides a low drag three dot system for fast target acquisition and minimal combat gear interference. The smaller dots provides a more precise yet solid sight picture. http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...7/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...781/medium.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...779/medium.jpg To round off the package as an effective combat weapon, a flush-mounted lanyard loop has been integrated in to the pistol to allow the operator to attach an appropriate lanyard so that the pistol can never be lost in the midst of combat. http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...5/original.jpg Allowing the build to be that much more realistic, final finishing touches such as these markings round out the package to make it appear that much authentic to the original product. http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...7/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...8/original.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...0/original.jpg This build uses a "dry lubrication" concept I've been working with. It's done by mixing fine graphite powder (dry) in to a grease base (I used white lithium) and then coating all moving parts with this mixture. Once all contacting/moving parts are coated in this mix, I proceeded to work the gun through all cycling functions non-stop for a good hour or two. I fired up an episode of The Unit and watched it while I continued racking the slide non-stop the entire time. The fine graphite powder works its way in to all the small divots, cracks, seams, etc and also polishes any restricted areas to create an ultra smooth surface. Once fully worked in, all of the excess grease is wiped as clean off as possible. The fine graphite powder should remain behind and "stuck" in all the imperfections of the surface, but the result is an ultra smooth movement with NO GREASE whatsoever. The benefit of doing this is for a lower maintenance gun: 1) No new lubrication is required 2) If there's no grease, then dirt can not be attracted, if no dirt is attracted to the system, then there's no cleaning/maintenance required! I hope you have all enjoyed reading about this pistol as much as I have enjoyed building it. http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...2/original.jpg Pistol Base: Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa Magazine: 2x 28 round magazines 2x KM/Head 1950 High Flow Valves - Enhances shot velocity and consistency Externals: - ILLusion Kinetics Aluminum Slide, Kimber Custom TLE/RL II, CNC Machined 6061 - ILLusion Kinetics Straight Barrel, .45 ACP, Stainless Steel - ILLusion Kinetics Barrel Bushing, Silver, Stainless Steel - ILLusion Kinetics Spring Guide Rod, Silver, Stainless Steel - ILLusion Kinetics Guide Rod Plug, Silver, Stainless Steel - ILLusion Kinetics Adjustable Trigger, 3-Hole - ILLusion Kinetics Steel Hammer, Oval - Freedom Art Mid-Frame, RL II Style, Olive Drab - Tanio Koba Fingerfits Tactical Grip, Olive Drab - Nine Ball Combat Sights Internals: - ILLusion Kinetics Adjustable Trigger Stirrup - ILLusion Kinetics Steel Hammer Strut - ILLusion Kinetics Steel Sear - ILLusion Kinetics Steel Valve Knocker - Nine Ball Dyna Piston Head - Guarder 150% Enhanced Recoil Spring - Guarder 150% Enhanced Hammer Spring - Firefly Hop Up Bucking ( Soft Type ) - Tanio-Koba HOP Twist Barrel - Airsoft Surgeon Nozzle - RCC Power Up Cylinder Bulb Performance Readout: Conditions: Shot with Madbull Precision 0.25g BBs with Propane FPS Shot String: 316.6 315.8 314.6 312.7 309.3 305.6 309.7 303.7 303.7 301.7 High Velocity = 316.6 fps Low Velocity = 301.7 fps Average Velocity = 309.3 fps Average Deviations = 4.5 fps Energy Output = 1.10 Joules Equivalent fps in 0.20g = 345.9 fps http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...3/original.jpg Feel free to fire away with any questions. |
Mmmmmmm I want it, but I fear the price you'll PM me for it hahaha.
But seriously that is a seriously sweet pistol :D |
Incredible. I love my Kimber LAPD Swat Custom II and Desert Warrior. This is just really...practical. I like the clean lines.
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now that it badass
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That's Beautiful! I want one... and I'm not even a pistol kinda guy
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Gorgeous pistol... great job man!
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Is that the new frame or the Guarder/Koba frame? That was also the first one I've seen with the 9Ball sight.....looks very good....
I also like that guiderod with hex head built in....If I were to build another 1911 I'll have to get that...I had to drill and tap my PDI guide rod for the 1911+comp to install(and loctite) a hex setscrew to let me torque down the 2 piece rod properly... |
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The 9ball combat sights look good, but are a real pain in the butt to install. A lot of filing is required to get them to fit any slide, which is why I never bothered using these too often. Quote:
I can get the guide rods machined to any length you require. Just let me know what you need. |
Right now I don't have a need for one. The Limcat come cross drilled on the 2 halves that I can tighten, but the PDI ones doesn't but I took step to correct that. The SV has one piece guide rod....
But as with the airsoft money burning in ones pocket...the situation changes week to week....:D |
To add, this build uses a "dry lubrication" concept I've been working with. It's done by mixing fine graphite powder (dry) in to a grease base (I used white lithium) and then coating all moving parts with this mixture. Once all contacting/moving parts are coated in this mix, I proceeded to work the gun through all cycling functions non-stop for a good hour or two. I fired up an episode of The Unit and watched it while I continued racking the slide non-stop the entire time. The fine graphite powder works its way in to all the small divots, cracks, seams, etc and also polishes any restricted areas to create an ultra smooth surface. Once fully worked in, all of the excess grease is wiped as clean off as possible. The fine graphite powder should remain behind and "stuck" in all the imperfections of the surface, but the result is a polished smooth surface for ultra smooth movement with NO GREASE whatsoever. The benefit of doing this is for a lower maintenance gun:
1) No new lubrication is required 2) If there's no grease, then dirt can not be attracted, if no dirt is attracted to the system, then there's no cleaning/maintenance required! See original post, I've added a full parts list. |
Another amazing work done by ILLusion! I WANT! By the way, what holster is that?
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Btw, can the name get any longer?:D
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zomgs thats is siiiiiik!
i would sleep with that under my pillow! |
Looks good bud. Why not get your own
Kimber combat (wedge/teardrop) sight machined? Or simply use the Bomar that comes with the TM 5.1, since the Kimber target pistols come with them in RS. Another small thing I noticed was your chamber doesn't have the notch cutout, to observe the rim of a loaded round. Would make a nice touch to have that. |
Building another gun... That's a really bad habit Brian..
Anyways, like always, another sexy hi-capa. |
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I purposely did not want to stick with the Bomar type sight that the standard 5.1 comes with, because I wanted something that was a bit more snag free. The rear sight plate of the Bomar type sight is a bit more prone to catching on gear. Quote:
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Excellent.
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Gorgeous man. VERY nice work.
I've been building AEGs now for a year or so - and now you've inspired me to try GBBs. |
man those nineball combat sights are starting to grow on me.
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They're an absolute nightmare to work with.
I mean... who would have thought to just create a proper product that the user could just drop in and save themselves a lot of hassle? Why... it would only make too much sense. Those sights make me angry. ... but they sure do look sexy. |
you did a fine job nonetheless. It is a true sex machine.
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Looked at another capa made by Illusion...and i jizzed in my pants.
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I OWNED an Illusion Capa. It was the most beautiful thing I ever held in my hands. And to this day I regret selling it. I barely even got to use it... It was a wonderful beast. Never have I felt such kickback in a GBB.
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get the latter one if you do....those frames are way nicer and worth the extra bucks....
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Proud Owner - Illusion Kinetics Custom Kimber TLE RLII
5 Attachment(s)
Could resist taking some photo for eye candy. After handling it for the first time this piece shows incredible workmanship. I plan on doing some long term testing for a detailed review. So far....it's sex in handgun form.
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I miss it already... I may have to build another one. lol.
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Illusion, You do some really nice write ups, builds, and photos.
The gun is a nice build, but I'm more impressed with this "dry-lube" concoction. Where's you get the idea? Or did you "mix" it up yourself? Quote:
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Regarding the dry lube, to be quite honest, I'm not sure exactly where the original idea from, as the idea was in my head for years, but I think the final inspiration really came from Carl / MadMax of Airsoft Innovations. Many years ago, I got the graphite powder with the idea to apply it to moving parts. I'd tried it several times in its dry form and very soon after, I'd abandoned the idea. It was way too messy, and in a dry application, it did not apply much benefit at all. The stuff gets EVERYWHERE and is a real headache to work with when dry. Recently, I was talking to MadMax about several ideas (this is not new for us. We always throw ideas at each other) and he gave me the concept of mixing it with a grease as a carrier to help contain and spread it to minimize the mess that this stuff creates. It was a great idea, so I tried it and it really really really REALLY worked nice for this build in particular. I definitely plan on trying it for future builds. So with that, I would like to grant the original concept to MadMax of Airsoft Innovations. I will leave it up to him to expand on it further if needs be. |
should market this stuff.....I know I'd buy it...:D
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The base products are easily acquired. It's just the process and labour time that's required that really makes the concept. |
once you go custom its hard to go back...lol
btw, about the grease, whats the composition of the mixture between the powder and the grease? have you tried using this stuff in say, the GBB M4 bolt assembly? |
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I've also figured out how to use real steel grips on an airsoft receiver. Expect some boner inducing projects in the future... Quote:
I would NOT suggest using this compound as the actual grease. It MUST be wiped off, because you don't want any of that grease flinging off and landing on something, as it will stain it with the graphite. That stuff is impossible to get out of clothes. Also, it acts as a minor abrasive / polishing compound. Leaving it in will cause excessive wear over time. Working it in at the beginning is done to provide a minor buffing to the mated components to ensure a good fit with each other, while filling in the pits with the graphite to create an ultra smooth polished surface against each other. I've only tried this method on two builds so far... the one featured in this thread, as well as a custom high precision all black version of this gun for a customer and the results worked well both times. I'm not sure how it'd work with the M4 GBB bolt assembly, but seeing as how there are much more nooks, crannies, and cracks of the M4 bolt assembly, I'm not too sure I'd be willing to try this in there, as it'll be a real headache to clean the goop out afterwards. In the past, I've actually used similar polishing compounds on AEG systems, especially in very sensitive builds such as ultra high ROF builds. Now that I think about it... the original idea for using grease as a carrier actually came from Prometheus. I still have one set of these grease kits in stock and for sale, but the Prometheus grease kit essentially comes with one container of grease (I believe it may be a Molybdenum grease, and is very very nice), and it also comes with a mixing container (with various compartments for making and storing different mixes) and two mixing compounds - one is a slightly viscous oil to lighten up the weight of the grease, and the second is a powder, which acts like the graphite I've been using. The powder/oil is then mixed in, ratios are dependent on the application. The powder compound is used in break-in runs of gears. It's applied to all of the teeth and moving parts of the gearbox. The gearbox is then closed up with no spring or piston and you'd hook up a motor and just run the setup for about an hour or so. Occasional breaks are taken to let the motor cool down (if it heats up - it shouldn't, as the load is minimal... btw, running the motor like this is also a great way to break a new one in), and also to reapply or adjust any grease that may have flung off the gear teeth. Once broken in, this grease is all wiped clean off all surfaces. At this point, you can actually run those gears as-is, with no more additional grease, but I usually add a very very thin layer on afterwards, just so it can pick up any left over residue. It's a LOT of work, but the results are usually quite good. |
I'm curious to know the cost of a full build!
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Generally, anywhere from $850 to $5500. $850 is for a basic slide/barrel build with minor internal upgrades. Pick your details, materials, finishes, parts & components. A full on open division race pistols with crazy custom engravings, insane high end porting, real steel optics, gold oxidized parts, stainless steel components, custom frames, real steel components, etc will easily run a build well over $5000. Will only sell to age verified users, unless you can provide government approved ID on the spot. You will also be judged on character before you can own something like this. I will not sell a piece like this to kids, thugs or idiots. |
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The lower end of the spectrum was close to what I expected; the upper end, higher than my prediction. I guess it really depends on all the bells and whistles you put in. Unfortunately I don't think I can fit one of your beautiful pieces into my budget right now but I will definately get one eventually! I'd also love to learn more about these builds and eventually be able to build my own. Seeing as we're in the same area, I'd love to meet up some day and learn a thing or two from you. |
http://www.pbase.com/racingmaniac/im...187/medium.jpg
ILLusion is one of my primary drug dealer....lol |
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I'm working on something at the moment that may even drop the price of the low end by almost another $100. |
Yes, of which I have none lately.. (finances that is). But soon... soon I shall.
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Wow I would buy it if it was $200 :D
But im pretty sure it's 1000-1500 :confused::confused: |
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Race gun talk was starting to overtake and jack this thread, so I've moved all of that discussion over to my custom productions thread:
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=69896 Sorry, age verified viewers only. |
For those of you who were curious to see what this gun looks like in black, here is a slightly different build:
http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...5/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...6/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...7/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...8/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...9/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...0/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...2/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...3/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...5/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...6/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...8/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...9/original.jpg This build is also using the "Dry lube" technique, which was just as effective. I think I'll be using that for all of my future GBB pistol builds for quite a while... |
Oh ! god, I can't continue to do my work now. I really start to hate you so much. It's really very nice gun.
KND |
Molybendum disulphide is an excellent dry lubricant. Once impacted/"worn" into the surface of the metal, it has so-so durability/wear-resistance. In a carrier, it's a bit more effective.
I used to use it to "moly-coat" my centerfire rifle barrels (.308, 22-250 and 6mm REM). The bullets were tumbled with a teaspoon or two of MoS2. Then they were either tumbled in media (corn cob husk bits) or wax. The first stage would peen the media into the jacket surface...the second stage would remove excess and apply a protective coating. I usually skipped the wax coating....and would have "newspaper fingers" at the range. When fired in a centerfire rifle...the MoS2 would be laid down on the inner surface of the barrel...and subsequent shots would lay down more. After a given amount there wouldn't be subsequent build up. There existed a real division amongst shooters about using it. It did make cleaning the barrel of copper easier...but I noticed that several shots were needed after cleaning to "settle in" the barrel. (we're talking about sub 1/2-1/4MOA....300+yrds...so it's really picky stuff) In the end...it's messy...and if cold bore accuracy is paramount, it's not for me...(granted, I'm no expert at it and may not have figured out all the ins-outs of it). MoS2 in a grease (commonly available at automotive shops or gun shops) is fine for gears and bearing surfaces. Once worked in, very little visible remaining on the surface is needed. Anything that you can see is basically excess. MoS2 in oil is different. The oil will actually deter it from "bonding" to the metal...and will act as a carrier to float the MoS2 away. It's ok for penetrating hard to get at places. |
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expensive masterpieces isn't going to game it, but make sweet love to it, and there for it'll receive plenty of the right lube. |
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