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TM/G&P M4A1 Gearbox Problem...

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Old March 19th, 2010, 01:04   #16
kaiu
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
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I just charged the mach1 battery for like 5 mins, and now it works, I think it was low on battery, I also just tried some crappy 9.6v 600mah battery and it works ok too
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Old March 19th, 2010, 01:14   #17
Skladfin
 
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get your shimming right and the gears and battery will last longer, better ROF, and trigger response.

Last edited by Skladfin; March 19th, 2010 at 01:16..
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Old March 19th, 2010, 01:34   #18
kaiu
 
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I'll get someone else to check the shims I guess... I have it just to the point where it doesn't wobble though...
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Old March 19th, 2010, 02:40   #19
Skladfin
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaiu View Post
I'll get someone else to check the shims I guess... I have it just to the point where it doesn't wobble though...
That's exactly how most newer shimmers think.

Fuse Blown = Too much Amperage
Too much Amperage = Too much resistance
Too much resistance = Too strong spring?
If not too strong spring, then = Too tight shimming

The reality is, gearbox gets tighter with screws in, with tappet plate on top of sector gear, anti reversal latch, all that jazz. Using your hand to close the gearbox and testing the gears by itself is a good way to test, but it doesn't reflect on the final fitment. I hope that helps

Last edited by Skladfin; March 19th, 2010 at 13:45..
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Old March 19th, 2010, 12:32   #20
Dirty Deeds
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skladfin View Post
That's exactly how most newer shimmers think.

The reality is, gearbox gets tighter with screws in, with tappet plate on top of sector gear, anti reversal latch, all that jazz. Using your hand to close the gearbox and testing the gears by itself is a good way to test, but it doesn't reflect on the final fitment. I hope that helps
Exactly.

Put all of the screws in the mechbox and tighten them (do not install the spring at this time) then turn the gears with your finger, they should move freely with no effort.
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