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Is a 11.1 volt 25c lipo too strong?

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Old March 10th, 2013, 15:22   #1
KarlR
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Is a 11.1 volt 25c lipo too strong?

I made the mistake of not looking at the C rating of a battery I ordered a few days ago, its a Intellect 11.1v 25C 3300mah LiPo Brick. I'm worried that it might be too much for my gun to handle. The gun I'm putting it into is a VFC m16. I'd like some second opinions on this as I've never used a battery this hot before in an AEG.

My personal take on it is that VFCs gear boxes are real tough, but that 25c rating might be pushing it. I'm more worried about the resistance in the wires resulting in over heating, but I plan to re-wire the gun with low resistance wires and deans connectors to help with the heat issue. If the motor height is in the sweet spot then it 'should' be okay to run in smei auto.

The gun is going to need a mosfet to further reduce the resistance and eliminate of arcing on the trigger contacts. I might as well throw that in while I re-wiring the gun.

Any how, what is your take on this issue?

Last edited by KarlR; March 10th, 2013 at 15:40..
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Old March 10th, 2013, 15:24   #2
Stealth
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What is the mah on the battery?
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Old March 10th, 2013, 15:27   #3
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It doesn't matter.
Some guys here run their guns off 90C LiPos. The C rating only dictates the MAXIMUM draw of the battery. Higher C ratings also have lower internal resistance, so it increase ROF very slightly, but not by a serious amount.
Between my 1800mah 20C and 4900mah 40C you can't even audibly hear the difference in ROF.
It's pretty standard for people to run 20-40C LiPo's outside of a stock tube.
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Old March 10th, 2013, 15:36   #4
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What spring is in the gun? What is the capacity of the battery (need this to know what the rating in amps is)?

25C is just a rating which means the battery is capable of drawing that much current safely. If your motor doesn't need that much it's not going to draw anymore than if you had a 20C lipo in there so as long as you're not going to be going crazy with the full auto it should be okay. If you're pulling anything under an M120 or M130, the 11.1V might even be overkill. The ROF will be insane but without a MOSFET my guns would over-spin with 11.1V lipos.
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Old March 10th, 2013, 15:39   #5
KarlR
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth View Post
What is the mah on the battery?
It is a Intellect 11.1v 25C 3300mah LiPo Brick I bought form airsoft parts Canada.

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Originally Posted by ThunderCactus View Post
It doesn't matter.
Some guys here run their guns off 90C LiPos. The C rating only dictates the MAXIMUM draw of the battery. Higher C ratings also have lower internal resistance, so it increase ROF very slightly, but not by a serious amount.
Between my 1800mah 20C and 4900mah 40C you can't even audibly hear the difference in ROF.
It's pretty standard for people to run 20-40C LiPo's outside of a stock tube.
That's some good information right there. Do you run a mosfet on your guns? I'm thinking of getting the Generation-3 ASCU mosfet system when that comes out in a few months.
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Old March 10th, 2013, 16:02   #6
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Originally Posted by dpvu View Post
What spring is in the gun? What is the capacity of the battery (need this to know what the rating in amps is)?

25C is just a rating which means the battery is capable of drawing that much current safely. If your motor doesn't need that much it's not going to draw anymore than if you had a 20C lipo in there so as long as you're not going to be going crazy with the full auto it should be okay. If you're pulling anything under an M120 or M130, the 11.1V might even be overkill. The ROF will be insane but without a MOSFET my guns would over-spin with 11.1V lipos.
It's a stock VFC gearbox, I'm not sure what kind of motor they use in them.
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Old March 10th, 2013, 16:20   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlR View Post
It's a stock VFC gearbox, I'm not sure what kind of motor they use in them.
What spring is in the mechbox?
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Old March 10th, 2013, 16:38   #8
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What spring is in the mechbox?
It's a M110 spring. It shoots about 400-420 fps with a 509 inner barrel.
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Old March 10th, 2013, 19:56   #9
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You're not going to draw more than 15A with any airsoft gun unless something is going on with your motor.
Most stock guns draw anywhere from 4A to 12A, mostly dependent on the motor.
Like a stock systema Magnum may draw as much as 30A because it's arcing through the end bell. But a 400fps 1300rpm gun with a well tuned motor may only draw 15A.
20C with 1200mah is very safe. 20C with 3300mah can handle pretty much anything you hook up to it lol

And yes I do run mosfets on all my guns.
IMO it's pointless to run LiPo without even a simple mosfet, mainly due to safety. Having a mosfet with a resettable fuse may save your lipo from toasting. And most importantly, it will save your trigger contacts, not just from a higher voltage of the 11.1v, but from the higher amp load of a LiPo, which even a 7.4v on sustained fire could cause your contact block to melt.

If you want more info on LiPo, they're explained in great detail here;
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=99899
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Old March 10th, 2013, 20:45   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderCactus View Post
You're not going to draw more than 15A with any airsoft gun unless something is going on with your motor.
Not really, this is only really true for Marui-spec guns running weak springs and slow ratio gears, and is somewhat artificially capped by Tamiya connectors.

Drawing 25A to 35A of continuous (non-burst) current is common and not at all abnormal, and not at all indicative of something going on with your motor. I am working with someone to contribute my part towards a wider array of data on this, but evidence/data coming soon.

For now I'll say that 25-35A of continuous is absolutely within spec for a range of motors, battery types, gear ratios and spring strengths, mostly higher spring strengths and mostly higher-torque motors, but totally fine. There has been data gathered by folks over at ASM to indicate that spikes or bursts are a couple times higher than that on some setups.
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Old March 10th, 2013, 21:16   #11
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it's hard to find that thread on airsoft mechanics with all the testing they did
I'm sure your crazy ass guns are drawing 35A lol
But guns like my 249 that are specifically built for maintaining full auto draw significantly less current since it's built to lessen the load on the motor. But yeah it depends heavily on the setup, spring gears shimming motor etc.
But to give you a reference point, PTW's usually draw around 20A. That's why the ROF goes up quite a bit when you go from the old firefox 12C (13A cont) to a real LiPo that supplies the 20A it needs lol
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Old March 10th, 2013, 21:40   #12
KarlR
 
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What kind of mosfets do you guys use? I dont need any thing to fancy, I was actually planing on building one myself and testing it out on my JG g36c.
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Old March 10th, 2013, 22:13   #13
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Try a merf 3.2 if you want rof controll and 3rnd burst or they vave another simpler one. Either one can just be pluged in between the batery and gun fora simple installation.
Chect out airsoftstore.ca the got a cpl of good fets
http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...ex&cPath=35_34
They wer spose to get a small ass one too but i dont see it yet. Pico i think it was called.
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Old March 11th, 2013, 00:14   #14
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As cheap as they are, it's difficult to justify making your own
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Old March 11th, 2013, 00:20   #15
Stealth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hectic View Post
Try a merf 3.2 if you want rof controll and 3rnd burst or they vave another simpler one. Either one can just be pluged in between the batery and gun fora simple installation.
Chect out airsoftstore.ca the got a cpl of good fets
http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...ex&cPath=35_34
They wer spose to get a small ass one too but i dont see it yet. Pico i think it was called.
Crossing my fingers - tomorrow. They're in Mississauga right now.

We had them before, but after Steve blew up a few of them we decided to pull them from the store and give Gate some feedback.

Guess what? They listened and the new ones are enroute. They're beefier versions designed to handle 11.1v Lipos and higher current draws.
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