Motor struggling?

[Omnivorous]

Hi, I have a stock VFC MCX Virtus I've gamed probably 40-50 times. A few times now in the middle of the game the gun makes the sound like it's going shoot, but then stops. If I pull the trigger again, you hear it try to cycle, but it won't. Pull it again, nothing. Pull it again, and it's off to the races and works fine for another couple hours. This is has happened to me now 3-4 times over the last 2 games.

So I know it's not simply the battery dying. Is this characteristic of a motor going? I've heard the stock VFC motors aren't the higher quality neodymium ones.

I can open it up and check the trigger contacts also. I'm just hesitant to take a part of the gearbox because it shoots the perject joules and I'm paranoid I'll mess it up.

Thanks!

[RainyEyes]

I would take it apart just for cleaning and lubrication if you've gamed it 50 times already.

A struggling motor can mean that the gears are seizing due to debris and gunk or that there's a wiring issue or there's a motor height issue or a battery issue. Anything in the above combined, really.

Alternatively you could always just swap out the motor and if it fails to function afterwards you'll know that wasn't the (only) faulty part.

[Ratters]

Rainy is right, you might also want to check your motor brushes and stator. brushes are cheaper than a motor if you can find them and a stator cleanes up well with some fine emery cloth if its not badly damaged

Another thing to check are your battery and aeg connectors, still mini Tamiya or have you switched to deans?

in either case, Tamiya being the more problematic, The connectors can expand under heat transfer, in some case break

Hope it helps and happy pew pewing

[Omnivorous]

Thanks guys. I'll take a look at this stuff. I would have already made the switch to hpa just to escape all of this stuff, but the field I play at doesn't have a refill station (it's a small field). I guess I should be happy I got 1.5 years of pew pewing at 1.5j with no problems!

[Ratters]

Most well set up aegs will be reliable for years with the only thing requiring maintenance is the hop bucking, if even that

11.1 lipos on a non mosfet or even some "listed as" 11.1 lipo ready are hard on the components. Particularly the trigger contacts, brushes and stator. The motor itself at times getting so hot some players can't hold the grip

Wire guage and quality of the wire is also an issue. It's like trying to blow water through a straw to put out a raging fire with small guage wire and a powerful battery

Proper gearbox shimming and ball bearing components at the piston head and spring guide also help reduce load on the battery. They type of spring and gear set can also determine what type of current draw is being requested of the battery through the motor

There's a lot going on in an AEG and all these things work hand in hand

With some thought, plenty of research and reasonable demands placed on its components by the user you can also have go to aegs that will run and gun for years