FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[p.phresh]

need some help with a 1911 build.

I am piecing together a 1911 and when I've got the hammer assembly together without the thumb safety in place it works as it should. but as soon as I have the thumb safety in the trigger doesn't return and seems jammed back so much so I actually have to pull it forward forcibly.

I've tried a few different safeties all with the same results. hi capa safety, single side safety, stock, aftermarket and they have the same results. but without a thumb safety it works fine.

any ideas?

[e-luder]

Hi ILLusion,

Thank you for your expert advise.

Originally Posted by ILLusion

well... what's the reasoning for doing this? Is it not functioning as it should? My concern about modifying these critical components, is that you can easily cause accidental discharges or other firing anomalies. (ie, pulling the trigger and nothing happening).

Well, I've noticed that the stirrup wasn't locking properly with the t-bar disconnector. When I observed it with the thumb safety off, the t-bar would "slip" off the grooves hammer because the edges were rounded off.

Sounds like you have a crap barrel that's not fitting properly to the hop up chamber, and/or it's a heavy steel outer barrel portion attached to a lighter weight aluminum chamber, causing it to tilt forward. It's impossible for the hop up chamber to move, as the slide lock holds it in place.

This is probably the answer I was expecting. lol. I found out that the slide catch has actually snapped in half. Although I still fail to see how it would move the barrel that much since there is still a bar to lock it in place. Plus, the problems persisted before the catch snapped. In general, would a straight barrel from a 1911 (with the bushing if I can find a compatible one) be a more reasonable way of fixing the jam?

Sounds like the trigger disconnector's bar isn't slipping behind the sear properly. This is caused by multiple causes - all of which, reduce the amount of space between the trigger stirrup and the sear. The disconnector needs enough space to slip behind there, otherwise you can experience the symptoms you're describing. Watch the firing action with the beavertail safety removed. You can see what's happening (or not happening) easier that way

What is weird is it is functioning as it should. The trigger mech functions well without the beaver tail engaged. But when pressed down, the trigger weight doubles or the amount of pressure needed to break the hammer is increased ten folds when the beavertail is pressed down. I've tried bending the leaf spring alloted for the beavertail safety to increase the room for it to expand but it didn't do much since I think the pressure is coming from the pivot point (where the thumb safety locks it) and not the actual springed portion of the beavertail.

I've noticed the the middle "leaf" is being pressed down too much by the beaver tail and is causing the increase in trigger weight. I've bended the middle spring as well but it began impeding its functionality so I bended it back.

Also when the beavertail is pressed down, the gun drops it's power output by nearly 60fps. it's going from 265 with the beavertail unpressed and then drops to 210fps when it is pressed. So the beavertail is also impeding the hammer's ability to strike the valve knocker properly somehow. Granted I shouldn't be able to pull the trigger without the beavertail being pressed but it seems to be a common issue with most hi-caps that I've come into terms with. Plus all my internals as noted above needs replacing.

Any possible diagnosis?

The gun in itself needs an complete overhaul of internal components but I thought I might try to learn a few things on how they should function before I replace them.

I really appreciate you taking the time to offer some advice.

-e

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Anyways, Guarder nozzles... suck. I've cracked a few in the 1911/Hi-Capa series. I only have one remaining one which has held up strong (surprisingly). My personal preference for nozzles are the Shooters Design POM, or the Airsoft Surgeon product.

I spoke too soon. After 4 years of use, the feeding tip snapped off the Guarder nozzle that's currently in my Kimber Warrior this past weekend.

Originally Posted by Lessard

The nozzle is new, I installed it yesterday... I'm starting to wonder if I should soak the piston ring in silicone oil for a while, because it seems to soak it up pretty fast. How would I short stroke it? Never done that before, who knows, maybe I did it by accident...

No need to. If you're putting silicone oil in your gas before filling your magazines, then enough oil will blow on to the o-ring as you shoot the gun. I generally do not recommend soaking o-rings unless they're visibly dried out.

At most, you can apply some cylinder grease to the inside of the nozzle.

I'd look again to make sure your floating valve assembly is intact and functioning properly.

As for short stroking, there are numerous ways to do it, from over-coiled springs, to shock buffers, to active recoil buffer springs, to a physical block to reduce the stroke length.

Originally Posted by p.phresh

need some help with a 1911 build.

I am piecing together a 1911 and when I've got the hammer assembly together without the thumb safety in place it works as it should. but as soon as I have the thumb safety in the trigger doesn't return and seems jammed back so much so I actually have to pull it forward forcibly.

I've tried a few different safeties all with the same results. hi capa safety, single side safety, stock, aftermarket and they have the same results. but without a thumb safety it works fine.

any ideas?

I would watch the action with the grip safety removed to see how the interaction is occurring. Unfortunately, I haven't come across this issue before, so I can't suggest anything. I'd have to see it to know what it was doing (or not doing.)

Originally Posted by e-luder

Well, I've noticed that the stirrup wasn't locking properly with the t-bar disconnector. When I observed it with the thumb safety off, the t-bar would "slip" off the grooves hammer because the edges were rounded off.

If you have replacements coming in, you could experiment with it. Just make sure you test fire in a safe direction and location before you load any ammunition in.

Originally Posted by e-luder

This is probably the answer I was expecting. lol. I found out that the slide catch has actually snapped in half. Although I still fail to see how it would move the barrel that much since there is still a bar to lock it in place. Plus, the problems persisted before the catch snapped. In general, would a straight barrel from a 1911 (with the bushing if I can find a compatible one) be a more reasonable way of fixing the jam?

Having a barrel bushing won't do anything in regards to barrel movement. All it would do, is prevent the muzzle from tilting down.... which it shouldn't do anyways. If you get a good bull barrel, it won't tilt down anyways, so looking at a straight barrel solution isn't necessary. Or, just go with an ILLusion Kinetics non tilting barrel. Then you wouldn't have to worry about tilting issues at all.

Originally Posted by e-luder

What is weird is it is functioning as it should. The trigger mech functions well without the beaver tail engaged. But when pressed down, the trigger weight doubles or the amount of pressure needed to break the hammer is increased ten folds when the beavertail is pressed down. I've tried bending the leaf spring alloted for the beavertail safety to increase the room for it to expand but it didn't do much since I think the pressure is coming from the pivot point (where the thumb safety locks it) and not the actual springed portion of the beavertail.

I've noticed the the middle "leaf" is being pressed down too much by the beaver tail and is causing the increase in trigger weight. I've bended the middle spring as well but it began impeding its functionality so I bended it back.

Also when the beavertail is pressed down, the gun drops it's power output by nearly 60fps. it's going from 265 with the beavertail unpressed and then drops to 210fps when it is pressed. So the beavertail is also impeding the hammer's ability to strike the valve knocker properly somehow. Granted I shouldn't be able to pull the trigger without the beavertail being pressed but it seems to be a common issue with most hi-caps that I've come into terms with. Plus all my internals as noted above needs replacing.

Any possible diagnosis?

Where are you bending the spring? I've seen a lot of people screw up their leaf springs by bending them at the wrong place. Most people just try bending the prongs while holding the base. Doing this will cause the prong to bend at the base of the weakest point - in this case, it bends at base of each prong - where it splits off from the body. This is the WRONG bend point, and creates all kinds of wack issues. The proper spot to bend it, is where it's bent from the factory. All of the prongs should run straight from the body. Use a needle nose plier to bend it where the factory has bent it.

[e-luder]

Where are you bending the spring? I've seen a lot of people screw up their leaf springs by bending them at the wrong place. Most people just try bending the prongs while holding the base. Doing this will cause the prong to bend at the base of the weakest point - in this case, it bends at base of each prong - where it splits off from the body. This is the WRONG bend point, and creates all kinds of wack issues. The proper spot to bend it, is where it's bent from the factory. All of the prongs should run straight from the body. Use a needle nose plier to bend it where the factory has bent it.

Well I'm not "bending" it so much. I'm actually "rolling" the middle spring on a recoil rod or something of that nature to create a slight curve of the spring. I figured it will offshoot the "bend" from the base to the body....

[GP]

I would also add me with some questions about this type of gun.

I got a gas KJW 1911 fullmetal.
I do not have a lot of experience on this type of mags but my gun shoots only 12 shots on a full tank of gas. Is this normal?
I sealed all the leaks, and I arrived at 18 \ 20 shots.
It is normal for this type of guns?
Any suggestions??

Bye

[p.phresh]

Originally Posted by GP

I would also add me with some questions about this type of gun.

I got a gas KJW 1911 fullmetal.
I do not have a lot of experience on this type of mags but my gun shoots only 12 shots on a full tank of gas. Is this normal?
I sealed all the leaks, and I arrived at 18 \ 20 shots.
It is normal for this type of guns?
Any suggestions??

Bye

yes this is normal because of the full metal slide adding extra weight as well as the stock KJW hammer spring is an upgraded one so it uses even more gas. if you can get a full mag out of it that's pretty good.

[GP]

Tanks P.phresh,
Now that I know it's normal for this gun , I restart the custom works...........
I reach 18\20 shoots using a light BBU from AIP, a custom plug and of course a tm 5.1 standard spring.

Next steps I need to work on mags to add more volume, and on the barell..............

hard Job..........hahahahaha

TThanks

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by e-luder

Well I'm not "bending" it so much. I'm actually "rolling" the middle spring on a recoil rod or something of that nature to create a slight curve of the spring. I figured it will offshoot the "bend" from the base to the body....

Don't roll it. You can also run in to issues this way. Bend it properly. Unfortunately, once you've rolled it, you've pretty much messed it up for future modification. You will introduce waving to the metal. This is another reason why a straight bend is more appropriate.

Originally Posted by GP

I would also add me with some questions about this type of gun.

I got a gas KJW 1911 fullmetal.
I do not have a lot of experience on this type of mags but my gun shoots only 12 shots on a full tank of gas. Is this normal?
I sealed all the leaks, and I arrived at 18 \ 20 shots.
It is normal for this type of guns?
Any suggestions??

Bye

Not normal. You should be getting at least 25 shots per mag fill. At least with a Marui. A stock Marui can get at around 40 shots per mag fill. I don't know about KJW.

Originally Posted by GP

Tanks P.phresh,
Now that I know it's normal for this gun , I restart the custom works...........
I reach 18\20 shoots using a light BBU from AIP, a custom plug and of course a tm 5.1 standard spring.

Again, I don't know about for KJW, but for a full metal Marui, this type of performance is sub-par. With the builds that I create for people, I aim for minimum 25 shots per magazine, when using a metal slide, stock blowback unit, and enhanced recoil spring using propane.

[GP]

Hi Illusion,

I do not know exactly on what depends, I tried with marui magazines and and nothing changes.
I put the complete slider on a body hi-capa and consumption is similar to the original installed.
I guess it depends on the gas I use, in Italy the greengas come to 8.5 bar at best, and I do not know propane.
Other idea is the wheater now we have 15-20°

All moving parts have a mass of 125 grams

This is the gun with the new plug, for use springs of different tests

[ILLusion]

Green gas = propane. It is the same thing.

The weather here in Canada is about the same as you. In my testing condition inside my house, it is 19-24°

[GP]

Ok .......... only 2 works left to try............

1) the hammer spring......... it's for co2 mags and it's wery strong .............
2) the floating valve (of Blowback) may be that don't close well

let's try.................

[kar120c]

I want to upgrade my TM DW to full metal using one of these kits http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...imber&brandId=
Because my DW has a 4.3 barrel the only things I must buy is the internal barrel, right? hop up rubber and hop up chamber are the same of the 1911/Meu? and so i the blow back unit?

[GP]

Ok all done and tested ................ my kjw 1911 now run 30 shots whit one refill at 15° of temperature whit standard mags .......... and whit kjw Blowback that is a litle more powerfull than the marui one.

now works for power.............

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by kar120c

I want to upgrade my TM DW to full metal using one of these kits http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...imber&brandId=
Because my DW has a 4.3 barrel the only things I must buy is the internal barrel, right? hop up rubber and hop up chamber are the same of the 1911/Meu? and so i the blow back unit?

Yes your Desert Warrior 4.3 *IS* a 1911, so it would fit just fine. And like you said you'd need to buy the longer barrel. (and maybe recoil rod)

[kar120c]

Originally Posted by Styrak

Yes your Desert Warrior 4.3 *IS* a 1911, so it would fit just fine. And like you said you'd need to buy the longer barrel. (and maybe recoil rod)

Thanks a lot, I am forgiving about the recoil rod. Another doubt, the bushing is the same of the DW?