WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

[John_234]

I just bought a WE Glock 19 3rd Gen. Having owned four or five KWA Glocks, a WE G17 and using a half dozen TMs Glocks, I have to say this gun is very very impressive. It kicks hard, is gas efficient and reliable, plus I notice a few very nice improvements over the WE G17 I have - like a much stiffer safety plate that doesn't bounce around when I charge the gun, and a trigger that stays back after you dry-fire. I'd go for a TM Glock 19 given the choice, but unfortunately it doesn't exist yet.

The Gunsmodify extended slide stop went right in, though that crosspin was more trouble than it was probably worth. Locks open every time.

The SD +2 baseplates are very tight, but I just sanded the insides down until they fit the magazines and slid off without too much force. I like how they add extra material to the magazine for reloads and how they fit the gun aesthetically, though I can see why they can be a hassle.

I might get a TLR-3 for it if I run it at my local field's pistol night. ((Not enough love for modern lights in opening post >_> ))

[123WillB]

I bought a tm g18c as my first gas gun this summer and have had pretty good stock performance with it. The only thing is, i can only find HFC-152a duster gas to use with it, and duster gas is pretty weak anyways. I am going to make the upgrade to propane because it is cheaper and has a higher pressure. For my gun to take the propane, i have to make sure it won't break under the increased pressures. How does this sound for a start?; PGC CNC slide/barrel set, Guarder 150% enhanced recoil/hammer springs and guide rod, and Guarder original frame. But the only problem is that i still need to get some shock buffers to make sure that my front screw post/casing don't give out on me. I have heard that the guarder front screw post is not that much better than the stock marui one, and i don't want it breaking on me. I don't want to buy the nineball spring guide pro (the one with the buffers preinstalled) because the spring is too weak for a metal slide and i would essentially be paying about 45 bucks for two shock buffers. I have been looking around for some, but have only came up with the ones from airsoft surgeon that are for the 1911/MEU/Hi-Capa. I'm not sure, but these (if they fit?) look like they would not protect the front screw post too well. So would these fit (does 1911 etc. have about the same diameter guide rod)? Also, what are some other shock buffers i could buy(i don't want to make homemade ones)?

[MrBond]

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/sa-recoil...rui-glock.html

If it's a newer TM Glock, don't bother with the hammer spring upgrade, the original is just as strong and is a better fit... alot of people had more problems after the upgrade. I use the buffer from the Nine Ball spring guide but like you said, it sucks... but the buffers are great tho and work on any spring guides. Those above do the job and are quite inexpensive. For the front screw post, the Guarder frame fares much better than the original but still, to be sure, fill in the gap in front of the post with Cold Weld or Epoxy paste, and it'll last you forever.

[123WillB]

Thanks for the response and the link, man! Unfortunately, the buffers in the link are out of stock. e-luder, about the buffers, you said,

Originally Posted by e-luder

Havent seen one in Canada for a while. ehobby had some left. i just put in a a big prder for them and some orher parts.

Which buffers are you talking about? Are they still in stock? What are the best buffers to buy that will protect my front screw post the best? Pls respond.

Btw how do I get my age "verified" here? I am almost 19 right now

Thx-Will

[e-luder]

I bought a tm g18c as my first gas gun this summer and have had pretty good stock performance with it. The only thing is, i can only find HFC-152a duster gas to use with it, and duster gas is pretty weak anyways. I am going to make the upgrade to propane because it is cheaper and has a higher pressure. For my gun to take the propane, i have to make sure it won't break under the increased pressures. How does this sound for a start?; PGC CNC slide/barrel set, Guarder 150% enhanced recoil/hammer springs and guide rod, and Guarder original frame. But the only problem is that i still need to get some shock buffers to make sure that my front screw post/casing don't give out on me. I have heard that the guarder front screw post is not that much better than the stock marui one, and i don't want it breaking on me. I don't want to buy the nineball spring guide pro (the one with the buffers preinstalled) because the spring is too weak for a metal slide and i would essentially be paying about 45 bucks for two shock buffers. I have been looking around for some, but have only came up with the ones from airsoft surgeon that are for the 1911/MEU/Hi-Capa. I'm not sure, but these (if they fit?) look like they would not protect the front screw post too well. So would these fit (does 1911 etc. have about the same diameter guide rod)? Also, what are some other shock buffers i could buy(i don't want to make homemade ones)?

Guarder Frames are good and generally lasts longer than the stock Marui Frame. It has a nicer matte finish than the shiny Marui one. I personally HATE the stock frame....

Though, it has some nice advatages, The Guarder frame is not invincible. As I stated before in previous posts, the frame will will break sooner or later. Sometimes it takes a few hundred rounds, sometmes a few thousands and sometimes, never during the duration of ownership until it gets traded or sold. Then the poor bastard who buys it has to deal with the eventuality of a broken screw casing.

The screw casing's design needs to be changed, IMO. Either by slanting the casing altogether or having a better structural re-design to have more structural integrity.

For me, before I install any new frame (Marui or Guarder), I always cement the casing in epoxy or something of that nature to provide a better base and strutural support to the casing.

Here is what I do:

I always JB weld that post before installation. The Guarder Frames are stronger than the stock ones but they are not invincible. THey will crack and break sooner or later.

When they do crack, the usually crack at the base of the post and not around. This is because of the brass screw casing that come pre-installed.

So what I do is cement the casing in JB Weld. You'll notice that there is a large recess on top of the trigger guard on the innards of the frame. Fill that void with JB Weld.

Like this:



My Guarder frame has yet to show signs of wareage from this mod but then again, I don't use this specific Glock all that often...

Regarding your shock buffers...

Which buffers are you talking about? Are they still in stock? What are the best buffers to buy that will protect my front screw post the best? Pls respond.

I was referring to the SA Shock buffers. They are made of hard rubber and come in packs of about 5 or 6(-ish). They do the job but I feel like they are still pretty hard. All they do is short stroke your gun. Even then, if they can't "absorb" the felt recoil, the buffers are somewhat ineffective.

THe best buffers I have ever came across (that I bought) was the NineBall buffers from that spring rod set. But essesntially, that's what you'd be buying if you don't want the crappy spring that comes with it.

BUT the very very very best system to use is to create a second stage spring on the recoil rod. You can see this design on the Marui or KSC Glock 26s or on some competition grade hi-capas. Basically, you'd need a smaller spring in place of the buffer springs and a plunger to separate it from the recoil spring. The spring needs to be stronger than your recoil spring or else it won't work properly.

To be quite honest, there is no real protection against the breakage of the screw casing. It's a matter of time. You can only delay it...

As for your age verification, have a look at the stickies on this forum. Here's the FAQ thread about it: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=49408

It may help if you fill in your location on your profile so that people can assist you in that process...

[.Zo]

Originally Posted by e-luder

This hammer is pretty sexy...
I've used it in a number of my custom builds. You may need to custom fit it though. The fitting sometimes can be a bit "off". Especially with the rotary piece. Some of the ones that I got required a minor filing job and a good grease tuning to eliminate unwanted friction. It's made out of steel so you'll want to pay close attention to how you fit it and how it interacts with the BBU. If you don't grease it properly, it can chew up the BBU overtime...


http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/shop/i...oducts_id=9002

I don't normally recommend the GunsModify Zero Hammer. Mainly because it needs a lot of work before it optimizes its functionality. This is even with their "newer" iterations. It takes a long break in period before it reaches what it needs to do properly...

Bought this hammer, waiting for it to arrive.

Also a question, should I use the guarder 150% recoil spring or the stock spring?

I also have an aip spring

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by .Zo

Bought this hammer, waiting for it to arrive.

Also a question, should I use the guarder 150% recoil spring or the stock spring?

I also have an aip spring

Depends one how heavy your slide assembly is.
Stick with a Guarder if you have a heavy slide (ie. Metal slide, heavy BBU, etc etc)
Stick with the stock spring if you a light slide (ie stock slide).

[.Zo]

Originally Posted by e-luder

Depends one how heavy your slide assembly is.
Stick with a Guarder if you have a heavy slide (ie. Metal slide, heavy BBU, etc etc)
Stick with the stock spring if you a light slide (ie stock slide).

I have the PGC slide but I've heard of problems with the guarder 150% spring

[e-luder]

such as?

[kar120c]

Just arrived I want to upgrade my KJW G27 Metal slide.
For first I want to change the recoil rod with the Guarder steel one with a new spring. This is my first doubt; what is the right recoil spring considering its strenght? I found spring from 70% to 200%.
Next part a Precision inner barrel, if I find it (sold out everywhere) and I don't know which diameter; the come form 6.01 to 6.04 and a new Hop_up rubber, the Marui original.
The most desired upgrades should be the Guarder Steel slide and outer barrel but I am afraid to have trouble to fit them.
[IMG][/IMG]

I am forgiving the lack of the safety trigger due to legal issue....nex upgrade

[e-luder]

Originally Posted by kar120c

Just arrived I want to upgrade my KJW G27 Metal slide.
For first I want to change the recoil rod with the Guarder steel one with a new spring. This is my first doubt; what is the right recoil spring considering its strenght? I found spring from 70% to 200%.
Next part a Precision inner barrel, if I find it (sold out everywhere) and I don't know which diameter; the come form 6.01 to 6.04 and a new Hop_up rubber, the Marui original.
The most desired upgrades should be the Guarder Steel slide and outer barrel but I am afraid to have trouble to fit them.
[IMG][/IMG]

I am forgiving the lack of the safety trigger due to legal issue....nex upgrade

I wouldn't go past the 150% benchmark and even then, it's pushing it.

The slide is too short and weight less than a standard size Glock. So a something like a 175% or 200% spring won't do much on a stock slide. It'll probably shorten the slide stroke such that it won't even complete the cycle to the rear. or worse, there will be too much resistance and the slide won't cycle at all.

For a steel slide you'd probably want a 175% spring since it is a bit heavier than the aluminum ones.

In general, most short barrelled Glock parts are close to not existing any more. That Guarder recoil rod has been out of stock for a long while now. I know that I found one on Dentrinity but someone here said that when he ordered, he got an email saying that the part was out of stock.

If you really want a Glock to "work on", the Marui Glock 17 is the preferred choice. Most aftermarket parts manufacturers cater the this platform because of its versatility. One minute it can be a competition type gun, the next it can be a skirmish gun...

For your inner barrel, I generally follow a rule that if a target is below...say... 20ft or 30ft, i stay with an 6.03 barrel. Anything above that distance, I go 6.01 with a proper hop up tuning.

On a short barrelled Glock like yours though, I stick with 6.01 to to compensate for the short barrel length....

[Qlong]

Originally Posted by e-luder

To be quite honest, there is no real protection against the breakage of the screw casing. It's a matter of time. You can only delay it...

There is, I've developed a simple procedure which transfers the energy from recoil into the frame of the trigger pin hole rather than into the fastener post.

I'm just working on CAD which simulates the stresses on the post before and after the modification.

Preliminary testing proves successful as no signs of cosmetic fatigue or fractures along the surface of the fastener post on Frame #1.

I can't say much about Frame #2.

Preliminary tests done outdoors at 2.0 degrees centigrade on compressed air @ approx 110 PSI to exaggerate plastic behavior in the material.

Frames #1 and #2 on Left and Right respectively.

[jordan7831]

Originally Posted by Qlong

There is, I've developed a simple procedure which transfers the energy from recoil into the frame of the trigger pin hole rather than into the fastener post.

I'm just working on CAD which simulates the stresses on the post before and after the modification.

Preliminary testing proves successful as no signs of cosmetic fatigue or fractures along the surface of the fastener post on Frame #1.

I can't say much about Frame #2.

Preliminary tests done outdoors at 2.0 degrees centigrade on compressed air @ approx 110 PSI to exaggerate plastic behavior in the material.

Frames #1 and #2 on Left and Right respectively.

Oh you tease. Telling us there is a way to prevent the frame breakage without telling us!

[e-luder]

My my my....
That's quite an effective fix. How'd you do THAT? lol.

[e-luder]

also,

does it work on a stock frame? it would save people a lot of money!!!