Chopping bb's - splinters in internals: PROBLEM SOLVED

[Ross]

Well think of it this way. Say you want to hit someone with a ball. You have two options. A ping pong ball or a tennis ball. Your going to get much more stability with a tennis ball. Yes, it's true a lighter bb will get a higher fps because it's easier to push an object that weighs less. But just like that ping pong ball, your accuracy will be poor. If you are playing in an indoor or urban setting where your targets are never more than 100 feet away, you wouldn't need to worry about this at all. But your gun is looking like a designated sniper rifle. And outside a heavier bb will be your friend.
I use .28s at the moment and my fps is 410. A higher weighted bb probably won't fix your splinter issue.
And the mags that are specifically designed for the we scar would be the ones that come in the original box with the gun. The other ones are ones that you can buy off of airsoft websites.

[Riko]

Hmm, can you show clear proof or something official about a "scar mag"?
cause none of the major airsoft sites even sell a We Scar mag....

Its only a We M4/scar mag....

+ i am a fps freak

[Ross]

There is no website that sells or shows a we scar only mag. If you take the original magazine that came with the gun, loaded it up with bbs, emptied the mag into a field, then loaded up more bbs into the same mag, and fired the 30 rounds into the field again, then did it again and again. You probably wouldn't see any bbs chopping. But if you buy any scar magazines from any website they are always going to say scar/m4. and those are the mags that chop bbs to shit. They probably don't chop bbs in the m4, but if you took it out and put it into the scar it will. Basically there are small differences between the m4 and the scar's loading system. To save money the company designed a mag that would cater to both with unfortunate side effects. The mags are essentially the same product, but probably off of a different assembly line. There is no "proof" other than the shavings left in your gun.

[Sim123456]

I'm using aluminium bbs now can't splinter that! Sillica bbs either!

[Ross]

are those legal to play with? like if you went to an official membership game of some kind, is that widely accepted?

[Riko]

He is not a player as you can imagine

Like me, he's an fps freak
He has 3 different valves...

[Ross]

so either of you never actually game?

[Riko]

Nope, we are garden shooters, or how do you call it

[Sim123456]

No of course not, I'm far from having the time to play, I only collect guns, mod them, pling and target shoot with them. I'm actualy in the process of having a pal to do real target shooting.

[technosnob]

In repsect to the "splintering"...it has been noted that the n-pas's finish on the nozzle end is less than desirable. I have sanded and polished the ends on mine to fix any splintering or leaving indentations on the bb. Compare the stock nozzle to the npas. You will feel the difference.

Now the bb stacking!!! Every time I read about this problem a tight bore barrel is always involved. In most cases you have to dremmel part #117. The barrel end, where part#117 goes into is a little tighter than the original barrel. It effectively squeezes the bb more. Then you factor in the cool down effect of the expanding gas it….everything contracts and the next thing you got is a lot of bb’s backed up. To confirm this remove the barrel and place part#117 into the end and place a bb in the top and push it through. Get a feel for how much resistance there is between the two barrels. You will probably notice that the tight bore will require more effort. Just dremmel away the inside of part#117 to allow better pass through. Just don’t grind too much away!!!!

[Riko]

Originally Posted by Ross

Not to worry, there is an apparent solution. I have done it myself recently but have not fired enough rounds to see if it worked yet.

http://www.airsoftgiforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=7684

In summary your bbs are being sliced before exiting the barrel. I theorize this cuts up your hop up too. The lips of the magazine that feed the bbs do not insert high enough into the gun and on their way out make contact with the edge of the brass tube. It's a real mess and affects accuracy. The link above can explain it much better than I can.

problem solved

Solution can be found in the link above.




Now I have NO CHOPPING and thus NO splinters at all
So Ross, yes it works! :nod:



Still looking for a way to clean the inner barrel, what kind of cleaning rods can you buy? cause all I see are metal rods, but thats not good for a precision barrel, need to find long plastic rods.
I guess I have to use a balloon stick?

[AngelusNex]

you'd need an unjamming rod to clean your barrel, on one end they have a slit to add a piece of cloth to pull through. Now, for the life of me, i can't find any website that sells just an unjamming rod. But they usually come with every gun purchase.

[Riko]

Originally Posted by technosnob

In repsect to the "splintering"...it has been noted that the n-pas's finish on the nozzle end is less than desirable. I have sanded and polished the ends on mine to fix any splintering or leaving indentations on the bb. Compare the stock nozzle to the npas. You will feel the difference.

Now the bb stacking!!! Every time I read about this problem a tight bore barrel is always involved. In most cases you have to dremmel part #117. The barrel end, where part#117 goes into is a little tighter than the original barrel. It effectively squeezes the bb more. Then you factor in the cool down effect of the expanding gas it….everything contracts and the next thing you got is a lot of bb’s backed up. To confirm this remove the barrel and place part#117 into the end and place a bb in the top and push it through. Get a feel for how much resistance there is between the two barrels. You will probably notice that the tight bore will require more effort. Just dremmel away the inside of part#117 to allow better pass through. Just don’t grind too much away!!!!

splintering issue, solved
(see my last post, you have to do the magazine mod, now the npas nozzle is desirable without sanding it )


stacking/building issue, solved
(see first post)
Its simply due to a lack of lubrication, so a very classic problem that just needed a classic solution, lol.
Bare in mind, that the stacking also happened with my stock inner barrel
That was at the end of a long day of shooting, without lubing.
So the barrel didnt matter in that case, it would always stack bb's.


ps: dunno what diagram you have, but part 117 is just a screw in the magazine.....better also call the parts with their name, or give a description.
I see what part it is now: http://www.cobraairsoft.com/images/m...CAR-014-WE.JPG (its part 014 on the net and in my diagram)
I dont see why you should mess with that part. Since its should be used with the stock barrel and with the RA Tech barrels.
Its normal that when you have the barrel in hand with that part at the end and you let a bb roll in, it wont go out.
If everything else works normal, that part will not be the reason a bb is not going out
When we had our problem, it was due to the npas system that wasnt lubricated enough
But like said, all my problems are resolved

[Riko]

Originally Posted by AngelusNex

you'd need an unjamming rod to clean your barrel, on one end they have a slit to add a piece of cloth to pull through. Now, for the life of me, i can't find any website that sells just an unjamming rod. But they usually come with every gun purchase.

the question, do they come in plastic?

[AngelusNex]

Originally Posted by Riko

the question, do they come in plastic?

only come in plastic.