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Custom M16 A2 Box Mag. ~1652K (SAW update)

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Old July 19th, 2005, 05:17   #16
Daes
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hummermaniac88
What about part 3? Me want now! Joking, post it up any time if your not busy.

Thanks
Ernest
Thanks for the motivation on getting this done. You have to show me when you're finished :cheers:

-Daes-
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Old July 19th, 2005, 09:13   #17
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kick ass dude

anyone who brings more ammo on the field is cool with me.
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Old July 19th, 2005, 10:41   #18
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Didnt know it was wood! Thats cool though. If i left that inside my house, my dog would eat it. He has a thing for thin slices of arbre :lol:
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Old July 19th, 2005, 12:35   #19
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Aww man, circuit city(radio shack) doesn't have anything. All I got was leds, rocker switch, small switch and battery pack. Could I use a small motor for those tamiya mini racers? I went Rona and ask if they had Door panel wood, and they said they don't know what I am talking about.. I try to improvise with other materials.

Thanks
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Old July 19th, 2005, 15:22   #20
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Originally Posted by hummermaniac88
Aww man, circuit city(radio shack) doesn't have anything. All I got was leds, rocker switch, small switch and battery pack. Could I use a small motor for those tamiya mini racers? I went Rona and ask if they had Door panel wood, and they said they don't know what I am talking about.. I try to improvise with other materials.

Thanks
Ernest

Yeah, Circuit City is Lame-o compared to the old school Radio Shack. Go back to Rona and tell them they are clueless idiots, then say you would like some Mahogany Door Skins/Panels, they will know what a door skin is, if they still give you a hard time, I will go down to my local Rona and ask for a product code. They are about 3-6mm thick and are 4x8 feet. They are used in making inside house doors, so if anything, find an old door and cut off the skin.

As for the servo, go to a hobby store that sells model rockets, crafts, and stuff and ask if they have a model airplane servo. Servo's are used to move the flaps on the wings. Any other motor does not have the correct gear ratio and will not be strong enough to turn the hi-cap.

Another place to look for pressure switches in on old computer equipment. Find an old CD-Rom and on the front ejection button, behind it is a very effective tiny pressure switch.

The below pictures show, a door, that has mahogany sheeting construction and looted pressure switches from an old cdrom and the power cable from a computer that I used for my modular switches. Just go to a computer store and ask if they have any broken CD-rom readers and any old power extension cables, I paid $5 for a ton of cables and junk...
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File Type: jpg doorskin.jpg (15.6 KB, 9 views)
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Old July 19th, 2005, 15:32   #21
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Originally Posted by Dozer_01
Didnt know it was wood! Thats cool though. If i left that inside my house, my dog would eat it. He has a thing for thin slices of arbre :lol:
heh, yeah, ditto with my dog. My shop is outside and if he gets in, he will eat all the spray paint can lids, any mouth size wood, and tear any bags apart... gotta love dogs...

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Old July 19th, 2005, 16:35   #22
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Thanks Deas, I built a prototype so when I get the wood and the rest of the parts, Im am good to go. My prototype is taking shape and is (please don't flame me for doing this) made of cardboard, JUST FOR THE MEASUREMENTS. I'll post up a pic later.

Thanks again Deas for the help.
Ernest
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Old July 19th, 2005, 17:09   #23
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Done the PROTOTYPE, here are the pics:







Thats all, this actually help alot, because I had to ajust and tinker with it so all my measurements match so I wont mess up when I get the wood.
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Old July 19th, 2005, 20:01   #24
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WOW, hummermaniac88 that is awesome! I like the dimensions of it, tight! Looks more like an ammo box then a .. box... Great idea of doing it up in cardboard first, measure twice, cut once, saves you hassle in the end. I am really looking forward to seeing the final project. Looks tight on your Armalite, hate to run into that in a CQB :-D

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Old July 19th, 2005, 20:09   #25
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Slight change of plan, I'll be using plexy glass, hot glued first then silicone shut to weather proof it. Wood could rot if water gets in(rain, snow..etc.). And the shape is going to change a little on the left side, the "bb hatch" is going to be the whole slanted left coner, and the slanted left corner is going to be bigger. The whole thing should be slimmer but same width. Thanks for the encouragement Deas, by the way, this is my first project, its small but easy for me so I hope I'll do ok!

Ernest
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Old July 19th, 2005, 22:43   #26
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Originally Posted by hummermaniac88
Slight change of plan, I'll be using plexy glass, hot glued first then silicone shut to weather proof it. Wood could rot if water gets in(rain, snow..etc.). And the shape is going to change a little on the left side, the "bb hatch" is going to be the whole slanted left coner, and the slanted left corner is going to be bigger. The whole thing should be slimmer but same width. Thanks for the encouragement Deas, by the way, this is my first project, its small but easy for me so I hope I'll do ok!

Ernest
Just out of warning, I started with plexy glass, then steel sheeting, and I settled for wood. I admit that I was skeptical of wood at first, I be more into metal working myself, but here is how the different materials turned out.

Plexy Glass Plastic - Unless you buy the strongest polycarbonate stuff around, it shatters, easily, especially when you are working with it. Drop in and bang, it has cracked or shattered, boooo... Just like diamonds are the hardest thing around, until it cracks...

Metal - regarding the picture it looks great. Light, strong, dentable, scratchy, dentable, bad structural support... just like door panels, it gets dented if hit... Not what I wanted...

Wood - this is why I fibreglass it, eliminates rot and makes it water proof. But a good paint job goes along way. Also per weight is stronger than metal and doesn't shatter like plastic.

For those of you who make or use kayaks, metal kayaks are a joke, plastic kayaks are strong but heavy and the lighter ones crack, bad strength to weight ratio compared to .... wood. Fibreglass the wood and it is great.

Now with this all being said, Kevlar and carbon fibre would make the best Kayak and ammo box but is really REALLY hard to use. Making molds are a pain in the arse... Maybe I will retry this box in composites but I would like to find the right dimensions that are pleasing to the eye and most easy to maneovere with. As you can see from Ernest's dimensions, much cleaner looking... let the envy ensue :twisted:

So the moral is, I suck at working with plastic and if Ernest can pull it off, then please please report what specific plastic material you are using, cause it really crumbled apart on me

-Daes-
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Old July 21st, 2005, 01:36   #27
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Well, that is the final section finished now. A 4 part mini-series. If anyone would like additional inclusions, just let me know. I would love to include/feature any boxes that anyone else finishes.

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Old July 21st, 2005, 01:48   #28
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I would think that if you applied your quite considerable skill to drummags for say, RPK's, (or any other machine gun as opposed to assault rifles) you could stand to make quite the tidy profit.

But I have to ask the question, what do you need 4000rnds for anyway?
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Old July 21st, 2005, 03:51   #29
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I would think that if you applied your quite considerable skill to drummags for say, RPK's, (or any other machine gun as opposed to assault rifles) you could stand to make quite the tidy profit.

But I have to ask the question, what do you need 4000rnds for anyway?
Next project, drum mag. for the thompson... Heh heh, tommy gun, drool :twisted:

And yeah, there is NO point to having 4000 rounds, if it takes you that many to kill someone then you have issues . Mind you, for day long games, this is more convienent than lugging a BB bottle around, or at least cooler looking. I agree about the machine gun point, I did this as a poor man's machine gun not wanting to shell out $2000 for a gun. My M16 assualt rifle has now became more of a M16 SAW. I am support and cover fire but serve no purpose as a sniper and marksman... That would be lame...

Finally... I am not that skilled, the hard part is figuring out how it all fits together. This tutorial is in hopes that other people try something creative instead of just going and buying the pre-made thing. It might be an idea for airsoft gun stores to start carrying things like servos... But you are right, if I can perfect nice metal box/drum magazines and make them in a realistic time frame, then yes, I would sell them or do custom orders. Just right now they are not "quality" enough for me to feel comfortable selling them...

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Old July 21st, 2005, 22:53   #30
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I finally got home and shaped my first peice out of plexy glass, and the results are better than I thought... It was hard to cut at first with the hand saw, but once I got a rectangular shape out of it, I quickly cut the corners with other power tools(I don't know the names but I know how to use it :wink: ) Then finally smooth all edges out by fine sanding it with the sanding machine(I know the sanding machine!). Here are the pictures:



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