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Old April 21st, 2008, 23:15   #16
ecsinc
 
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Nevermind on the capacitors. I just found out I'll need like 10,000microfrads to make any difference.
Oh well. A good shim job will sufice.
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Old April 25th, 2008, 14:47   #17
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Not to stray off topic.... What mAh do you recommend? I'm looking at a RC 9.6V 2500mAh Ni-MH battery for $12 with $8 shipping....
I was thinking of getting a 10.8V battery but then I'd have to get a Mosfet right? Aren't those expensive? Also, I need a new motor. It seems that with the M130 spring its losing its power...I'm probably burning the motor out. Even with ITU gears it seems really slow. Hows the guarder ITU motor? I've herd alot of good things about it plus the price. I could get a new battery & motor for the cost of the mangum motor.

I'm thinking of making my own battery. I've got a mag pouch for 2 M16 mags. I'm pretty sure I could fit a D size cell in there. Only problem is it'd be heavy as ****. Here's what Im looking at http://sanyo.wslogic.com/pdf/pdfs/HR-D.pdf Its a D size battery. lol 7300mAh... @ 30amp discharge its around 4500mAh which would last forever! Here's the weight, 9.6v..lol 3lbs...

I'm not the best at making batteries but I could learn....
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Old April 25th, 2008, 15:58   #18
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Why not just get a normal aeg battery?

buy an 8.6 3300MaH...

Or hell, get a 9.6 battery... What's all this nonsense about D cell batteries in mag pouches and all this...

Unless you're trying to go 30 shots per second or more... You really don't need anything more than a 9.6...
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Old April 25th, 2008, 16:09   #19
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Jesus Naglafar, make the guy refuse to check his own thread why don't you!!! Next thing you know you'll have calculated and posted the amount of Joules each electron is hitting the plates of the capacitor at, and confusing the poor bugger even more! I read and understand your calcs, but literally it's show off stuff and not usefull stuff.

I HAVE set up high uF caps in parallel in my MP5SD in the past, and it literally only helps the battery last a bit longer when going through it's cycles by smoothing out the load/no load cycles the motor goes through, by using the cap's charge/discharge capability. Wasn't a noticable anything, but was worth trying. AND, adding caps doesn't increase the voltage of one's battery. Will just add that statement to my post.
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Old April 25th, 2008, 16:23   #20
ecsinc
 
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k, so 9.6v 3300mAh should be good?

I get a good motor speed for like the first 2 shots then after that the motor slows down and levels off at the same rpm which u can hear... It's probably the motor that also needs replacing.
I've got a M733 so the batteries fit in the foregrip, I'll have to change it to the back with a mag pouch with higher cap batteries since they'll be large size.
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Old April 25th, 2008, 17:00   #21
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Even just an 8.4V 3300mAh battery will give you a lot more than you already have.
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Old April 25th, 2008, 19:08   #22
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How's this???: http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp...OD&ProdID=1695
It's danggg cheap though...$22 for a 3800mAh battery sounds iffy...
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Old April 25th, 2008, 19:12   #23
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Ive never had a good experience with all battery. Either its shit or extremely poor quality cells or bad shipping, terrible communication or poor customer service.

Try cheapbatterypacks.com
http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/?sid=1093648
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Old April 25th, 2008, 20:32   #24
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For the record, don't install capacitors in an AEG, unless you are very experienced with things electrical. And experience is not what you learned in a class somewhere either. There are about 4 or 5 people I've run across on ASC that would be capable of safely installing them, and most importantly knowing when and why not to install them.

A capacitor is an energy storage device by design. In DC systems, they have very little use, as most loads are resistive. Reactive loads, like switching power supplies with varying loads or motors are the only place they are needed, if ever. An AEG motor may have some reactive current, lagging the voltage by a certain amount, but most of it's current is going to be resistive, based solely on load. If the motor was an AC motor, this might be a different story.

Capacitors as said before are storage devices. In case of a fault or a short across capacitor leads, they will discharge their current at as close to the speed of light as physically possible. This causes them to explode, and the larger the capacitor, the bigger the bang. Three 1F caps can destroy a car, I've seen it. I wouldn't want a couple of 100 microfarad capacitors to blow up in the stock of a gun against my cheek.

In short, unless you are technically well versed and physically skilled, don't do it.
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Old April 25th, 2008, 21:53   #25
ecsinc
 
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alright, I'm going to go with something like this: http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/images/96v_4000_jpg.jpg But im ordering it from cheapbatterypacks.com instead of airsoftatlanta. I get it $52 with shipping there and AA is $60 without shipping...
I've got a 8.4v 1500mAh elite cell battery and its seems better than my intellect 9.6v battery..

Thanks for the help guys! I think I'm set! 9.6V 4000mAh battery, and guarder infinite torque up motor and M150 spring should do the job for me! Thanks for the help as always! I love forums...
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Old April 25th, 2008, 21:59   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecsinc View Post
How's this???: http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp...OD&ProdID=1695
It's danggg cheap though...$22 for a 3800mAh battery sounds iffy...
That's a 10.6V pack, 8 cells x 1.2V each is 10.6V

Just get an 8.4V, chances are you'll have an easier time stuffing it in your gun, most AEGs need a special aftermarket front grip/or a modded full stock to fit a 9.6V (9.6V are about 3/4" longer than 8.4V).

And, 9.6V will increase your piston replacement budget.
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Old April 26th, 2008, 00:24   #27
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huh? 8 x 1.2 = 9.6
I thought 9.6v will give me better power to the motor. So I can go 8.4v with no problem? That'd be great!
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Old April 26th, 2008, 00:43   #28
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Sorry, ya, that is 9.6V,. never seen that configuration before though, no idea what that battey is made for, can't see it fitting in any airsoft gun.

9.6V tend to be four dual lengths of cells, makes it longer and harder to pakc into an area meant for only an 8.4V. That one is shorter but twice as thick, and that one won't even fit a battery bag unless you made one for it.
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Old April 26th, 2008, 04:09   #29
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This might help if you haven't seen it.
http://www.airsoftmechanics.com/home...nt/view/16/30/

You are talking about a $50-60 dollar battery, and you should still use a mosfet with active breaking. You might want to wait to use an AEG that upgraded until you can fund it. As far as ghetto airsoft goes you could run the two minis in parallel to increase amperage but your cells won't perform any better, they'll just last longer. You need to be able to draw more amps even if its an 8.4v. The more amps the batter. 18ga wire is tiny! You might look at 12ga or 14 at least. Having a higher mah cell would increase the available amps for the battery which is the point.

Look at a 4000+mah intellect or Elite battery (8.4v at least) and get a mosfet w/ AB.
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Old April 26th, 2008, 08:47   #30
ecsinc
 
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So, lol from what everyone is telling me...I should be doing all this:
- 8.4V or 9.6V 4000mAh Elite battery (35amp discharge) ~$55
- MOSFET w/breaking (not sure where to get the mosfet? Computer store?) ~$35???
- Guarder Infinite Torque up motor ~$50
- Possibly a new wiring job, probably will have to since the battery is in the foregrip and I need it in a mag pouch in the back of the gun (I herd 16AWG wire is just fine..) ~$10-15
- Deans connectors? (I herd you buy them on ebay...) $10

That I think should be it...
Now the hard part is getting that money...
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