Systema PTW Basic Info and FAQ

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by SuperHog

It is not a bit of work, it is a lot of work. The plastic on these grips are durable, but also tough to grind.

I suppose a "bit" is subjective. Truth be told, it did take me 2-3 hours to get it done.

And to bring the conversation back to the current discussion on heating and motors: I've never even once felt my motor get hot, even with the original MIAD plate providing almost full coverage of the bottom. Your mileage will vary, depending on the battery and cylinder combo you use, along with how much you fire. I'm with Brad on preferring to keep dirt OUT.

[mcguyver]

It takes me about an hour to do a MiAD. I use a sanding drum on a Dremel. Most of the time is spent on fitting and adjustment to get it just right.

If you could cut it on a CNC machine, it would be done is minutes.

[SuperHog]

You guys are right , the PTW motors run much cooler than the AEG.

Are guys running 11.1V or 9.6V. If find the 9.6V works but it seem to lag in a PTW compared to a 9.6V in a AEG.

[mcguyver]

Originally Posted by SuperHog

You guys are right , the PTW motors run much cooler than the AEG.

Are guys running 11.1V or 9.6V. If find the 9.6V works but it seem to lag in a PTW compared to a 9.6V in a AEG.

Gear ratio. The gear train in a PTW in standard ratio will run up to an M170. It is very hard on the motor though, and you need to give it lots of current and keep voltage upwards of 14 volts.

Decrease the ratio slightly and it would be very zippy, but you might limit yourself to an M130. Most AEGs have a hard time with a standard ratio gearset and running an M130, you need to increase voltage and current delivery to make them go.

I prefer an 11.1 due to the fast response and reduced spool up time, but really dislike lipo.

[ILLusion]

I use 11.1v Lipo right now for most of my usage. I only use 7.4v (there's no 9.6v for LiPo... only for Ni-Cd & Ni-MH) for the M90. And even then, I still prefer to use 11.1v for the faster trigger response if I'm limited to semi-auto fire only.

[ThunderCactus]

Anyone ever try a 9.9v LiFe pack?

Took my about an hour to do my MOE grip, got mine before I realized FCC had one, or before they released it maybe, anyway the plastic magpul-PTS uses for their shit is the PERFECT material for chisel work. You can remove some big swaths of material with very little mess.

[wildcard]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

Anyone ever try a 9.9v LiFe pack?

Took my about an hour to do my MOE grip, got mine before I realized FCC had one, or before they released it maybe, anyway the plastic magpul-PTS uses for their shit is the PERFECT material for chisel work. You can remove some big swaths of material with very little mess.

I have use the 9.9 LiFe in one of my FCC FFL when doing the torture test for the 3.0 motor prototype, the bitch bubbles up like a fat kid after a buffet on the full auto burst test, my experience with the LIPO is they are great to use but they do heat up the motors more than the Systema nicads battery and I only find issues with the lesser quality LiPo, so far the Nanotech and Gen Ace have great results (year and a half of constant use without issue)

[SuperHog]

Life are better for lower current drain applications whereas a Lipo can withstand higher current demands.

Your motors heat up more with Lipo because the NiCad has maxed out its amperage. Future MOSFET system should incorporate current limiting to prevent over heating motors.

[mcguyver]

Current limiting + inductive loads = motor repair. This is the problem with lipo batteries as they reach the end if their discharge capacity.

[Azathoth]

I run LiPO 11.1v and 9.6NiCD on the Blue/Gold cylinders the trigger response is just noticeable different but not enough for it to be a deal breaker. I have had a lot of bad experiences with buffer lipo's firefox hot power etc, that I still havent tried Nanotech. I have had good performance from systema and venom lipos so far.

Prior to the bad run in with crapsoft buffer lipo I ran a 2800 mah 40c 11.1v brick style lipo riding side saddle on a CTR stock.

[xav1982]

I have a question about tightbore barrel, how does a pdi 6.01 barrel affect a 14.5 lenght ptw ? More range ? More accuracy ?

Thanks

[mcguyver]

The PDI is 6.04

They are a good barrel, the best of the aftermarket barrels. But a solud hopup is far superior to any barrel upgrade.

[wildcard]

Originally Posted by xav1982

I have a question about tightbore barrel, how does a pdi 6.01 barrel affect a 14.5 lenght ptw ? More range ? More accuracy ?

Thanks

Originally Posted by mcguyver

The PDI is 6.04

They are a good barrel, the best of the aftermarket barrels. But a solud hopup is far superior to any barrel upgrade.

The PDI barrel is frickin awesome it does add a bit of accuracy and distance but with a downside, since its a 6.01 it is a very tight tolerance and during winter in particular you will have some jams when playing in extreme weather. I switch mine to a 6.02 & 6.03 and we played in all extreme temperature from Hot to Cold without issues, Brad is also right about the HOP a good HOP is always better than a tightbore. Just remember PTW are toy guns with limitations, there are no magic application or hardware that will make it shoot ridiculous distance, lets be real its a toy gun not a real .223 or a 5.56

[swatt13]

I have the pdi tightbore in alm my ptws. When couple with the mcguyver or tac hopup it Does add some accuracy, but I experienced a notable bump in range (20-40 ft) I love Em personally. I don't play in the cold so I haven't experienced the issues jay mentioned, nor was I aware of them so now I know.

[Ricochet]

I did enjoy the PDI barrels, except the 6.01 I found was unstable in any temperature. The Final Evolution barrels impressed me as well. A Systema should not need a bore switch from 6.04, but if so I'd only go down to 6.03 Max.