FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

[m102404]

The floating valve is in the upper right...the round clip/housing that holds it in place is below it...the nozzle body itself is to the left.

This one is the Shooters Design POM nozzle....others will be different colours/materials. The floating valve can be plastic, SS or brass...depending on what make you have.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by StrikeFreedom

You shouldn't have to cut it. It should drop in like a MEU seal. Check out the video at around 4:25.

YouTube - Marui 1911/MEU GBB magazine maintenance and lubrication..

My friend got me 2 of those gas routers from gun street today. Tokyo Model Company staff said that they won't fit an MEU/1911. Nonetheless I'll try to fit them tomorrow and report back to you guys.

But assuming it doesn't fit, does anyone have any idea on how I should cut the notch on the rubber gas router efficiently/cleanly as to not mess up the rubber itself? I was thinking of using a small file but again, not sure if it'll work on the elastic rubber surface.

Originally Posted by m102404

The floating valve is in the upper right...the round clip/housing that holds it in place is below it...the nozzle body itself is to the left.

This one is the Shooters Design POM nozzle....others will be different colours/materials. The floating valve can be plastic, SS or brass...depending on what make you have.

I also noticed that the floating valve that comes with the SD nozzle have is thicker than the stock marui valve, leading to the SD valve 'sticking' to the nozzle when gas pushes the valve to close up the nozzle when the gun is fired.

I dunno whether there is an issue with the stock floating valve slightly 'leaking' gas out of the nozzle when the gas is redirected for the blowback effect (due to the pressure inside the nozzle being greater than atmostpheric pressure) but if you want a perfect air-seal, then using the SD nozzle and the stiffer valve spring that comes with the nine ball dyna piston head may be the solution. However; a high flow valve is probably needed for the valve to close quick enough since I tried it on my stock MEU mag with the SD nozzle + NB valve spring and if I remember correctly I ran out of green gas in 5 to 6 shots.

Does anyone have experience with using high flow valves with 1911/MEU mags? I would like to install them for my MEU build but I don't want a real-cap capacity. If I can shoot 10-15 bbs quickly (as fast as I can pull the trigger) and the slide still locks back, I'll go with the upgrades. So far my stock MEU mag in my MEU can shoot 18 bbs quickly and lock back on the last shot with green gas.

EDIT:

Okay, I've tried out the Nine Ball purple gas router rubbers on the MEU mag.

The size is different from a normal MEU rubber; the hi capa / nine ball ones sit higher than the MEU ones leading to the nozzle sticking to the mag due to the friction between the nozzle and the rubber router.

The rubber also doesnt have a notch for the mag lip pin to go through it. However, the rubber blocking the pin hole only covers half of the hole and if you jam a hex key to squeeze the rubber away from the pin hole while inserting the mag lip pin, the pin will fit right through.

So, although the gas routers FIT the MEU mag, it doesn't fit the whole pistol assembly. Kinda disappointing since I would've thought the NB rubber had the best air seal and now that I can't fit it in my MEU, I will never reach my goal of having the best air seal possible for a GBB pistol.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by intinerious

For the ripped stock rubbers; before the game they were fine, after the game they were ripped?

I think its probably due to my lack of maintainence of the rubbers themselves. All the rubber that ripped are from mags that came from a friend of mine and I dunno whether he maintains the rubber seals or not by oiling them once in a while. They looked fine to me before the game (no cracking or anything). The rubbers all ripped from the side thats closest to the bullet valve. The damage looks as if something pulled or pushed the back side of the rubber too much causing it to rip parallel to the direction of the hammer strike.

Another issue could be a loose BBU. If the BBU is too loose, the nozzle will have a tendency to point downards since the BBU is only being held from the back via the firing pin screw and due to gravity. the loading arm on the BBU may have been pressed against the rubber and causing it to shear.

Are you applying oil to your gas?

Originally Posted by intinerious

I dunno whether there is an issue with the stock floating valve slightly 'leaking' gas out of the nozzle when the gas is redirected for the blowback effect (due to the pressure inside the nozzle being greater than atmostpheric pressure) but if you want a perfect air-seal, then using the SD nozzle and the stiffer valve spring that comes with the nine ball dyna piston head may be the solution. However; a high flow valve is probably needed for the valve to close quick enough since I tried it on my stock MEU mag with the SD nozzle + NB valve spring and if I remember correctly I ran out of green gas in 5 to 6 shots.

Can you explain your theory on how a stiffer floating valve spring will create a better seal? Because by theory, it would actually make it HARDER to get a good seal, as its natural state is to resist closure of the valve.

What you're experiencing with poor gas consumption is the result of the valve not closing fast/hard enough. I've seen this on a lot of setups, so I would never outright recommend a stiffer floating valve spring. It's trial and error on whether it will work in your setup or not. I've never figured out what can make it work and what won't. High flow valves could be a potential solution, although I found that not to be the case with my own 1911. High flow valves, but it still would not work well when I had the 9ball floating valve spring installed.

Originally Posted by intinerious

Does anyone have experience with using high flow valves with 1911/MEU mags? I would like to install them for my MEU build but I don't want a real-cap capacity. If I can shoot 10-15 bbs quickly (as fast as I can pull the trigger) and the slide still locks back, I'll go with the upgrades. So far my stock MEU mag in my MEU can shoot 18 bbs quickly and lock back on the last shot with green gas.

If your 1911 is built well, you can get close to a full mag of gas out of it.

I can get a full mag out of one of my setups.

[RacingManiac]

~18-20 shots with lock back is about as good as I can do with 2 Nova kitted TM 1911. It can shoot out maybe 26-28 rounds, but past 20 rounds you can feel it being sluggish and no chance of it lock back on empty...

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Are you applying oil to your gas?


Can you explain your theory on how a stiffer floating valve spring will create a better seal? Because by theory, it would actually make it HARDER to get a good seal, as its natural state is to resist closure of the valve.

What you're experiencing with poor gas consumption is the result of the valve not closing fast/hard enough. I've seen this on a lot of setups, so I would never outright recommend a stiffer floating valve spring. It's trial and error on whether it will work in your setup or not. I've never figured out what can make it work and what won't. High flow valves could be a potential solution, although I found that not to be the case with my own 1911. High flow valves, but it still would not work well when I had the 9ball floating valve spring installed.



If your 1911 is built well, you can get close to a full mag of gas out of it.

I can get a full mag out of one of my setups.

dunno what you mean by applying oil in gas...

I run these type of green gas exclusively because I've been able to source a whole lot of them for free.

The thing about the 'better' air seal was about the SD floating valve being 'thicker' than the stock one, so when the gas pushes the valve close inside the SD nozzle it gets stuck with the stock spring. Addition of a stiffer valve spring will allow enough potential energy to be stored by the spring when its compressed (when the valve is closed) to exceed the frictional forces between the oversized valve and the nozzle, so the floating valve would still work. The 'better' air seal theory => thicker valve against the nozzle, COMPLETE air seal when the valve is shut and all of the remaining gas that is used for the blow back action WILL be for the blow back action and no gas could leak through the nozzle end due to any gaps between a closed STOCK valve and the SD nozzle. I'm purely speculating the tolerances of the stock valve and the SD nozzle diameter though, the stock valve may already completely block all the gases from escaping the nozzle chamber once its shut. It's really hard for me to explain it via words, but I hope you understand what I'm getting at. If not, I'll try to explain it again when I have the time to think and draft out my post (I'm about to sleep).

I think the thoery behind a high flow valve working with the stiffer nozzle spring is that the 'impluse' of gas rushing into the nozzle chamber (i.e. volume per second) is greater than a stock valve? Hence the high flow shuts the valve quicker than with a stock valve, and you won't get excess gas coming out of the barrel if the impluse is low? (i.e. when the BB is already out of the barrel but gas is still being diverted to the barrel due to the stiffer valve spring resisting the shutting of the valve for the gas to redirect for the blowback action).

I tried adding the stiffer floating valve spring and I can probably get 7 shots off. I don't have a chrono, but I'[m pretty sure the stiffer valve spring probably upped the joules (sorry, not that 'experienced' with converting to FPS since all the airsofters I know in HK generally talk about joules) to1.5 or above. A .2g bb shot through 5 sides of cardboard plus 3 layers of duct tape on the last side of the cardboard.

My current internal setup for my MEU is SD nozzle, stock valve spring and valve, nine ball hop up bucking and nine ball 6.03mm TB; and stock MEU mags. I venture to think that this is combo have the best air seal that you can get with retail aftermarket parts in airsoft shops in the present. I was hoping to go with a high FPS MEU even though I'll have a lower capacity since 1911s ARE meant to be shooting .45ACPs and having the same power as airsoft glocks kinda irks me. Plus, the 1911 mags are meant to hold 7 rounds anyway, so a capacity lowered to 10-15 bbs per mag is fine with me.

I dunno whats up with the weather in canada, but at around 20 degrees celsius here in HK, I can only get 18 bbs out per mag with the slide locking back on the last shot with green gas and shooting as fast as I can (probably 2 bbs per second). Any tips on upping the gas efficiency of my MEU in light of the upgrades I already have?:smile:

I've also noticed one of my MEU mags are very slightly leaking at the gas release valve (stock). it's leaking the gas to where the rubber routers are (so where the gas generally goes when the gun is fired). Is it just because my valve is loose or the o-rings are damaged?

As a side note, how come the 'smile' smilely doesn't work when I post?

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by intinerious

dunno what you mean by applying oil in gas...

I run these type of green gas exclusively because I've been able to source a whole lot of them for free.

Ah, right. I keep forgetting you are in HK. That type of gas should have lube in it.

Originally Posted by intinerious

The thing about the 'better' air seal was about the SD floating valve being 'thicker' than the stock one, so when the gas pushes the valve close inside the SD nozzle it gets stuck with the stock spring. Addition of a stiffer valve spring will allow enough potential energy to be stored by the spring when its compressed (when the valve is closed) to exceed the frictional forces between the oversized valve and the nozzle, so the floating valve would still work. The 'better' air seal theory => thicker valve against the nozzle, COMPLETE air seal when the valve is shut and all of the remaining gas that is used for the blow back action WILL be for the blow back action and no gas could leak through the nozzle end due to any gaps between a closed STOCK valve and the SD nozzle. I'm purely speculating the tolerances of the stock valve and the SD nozzle diameter though, the stock valve may already completely block all the gases from escaping the nozzle chamber once its shut. It's really hard for me to explain it via words, but I hope you understand what I'm getting at. If not, I'll try to explain it again when I have the time to think and draft out my post (I'm about to sleep).

Okay, I understand what you are saying now. But, gotta look at it this way... if even Marui spec floating valve can fit in to the nozzle without falling out, then would it not be a given that it's providing a seal? The lip on it holds it in place. The SD's problem is actually that the lip is too SMALL, and as a result, it slips inside the tunnel through the exit port of the nozzle.

Originally Posted by intinerious

I think the thoery behind a high flow valve working with the stiffer nozzle spring is that the 'impluse' of gas rushing into the nozzle chamber (i.e. volume per second) is greater than a stock valve? Hence the high flow shuts the valve quicker than with a stock valve, and you won't get excess gas coming out of the barrel if the impluse is low? (i.e. when the BB is already out of the barrel but gas is still being diverted to the barrel due to the stiffer valve spring resisting the shutting of the valve for the gas to redirect for the blowback action).

I agree with this theory and have always believed it as well. I just haven't gotten it to work successfully yet, but have also not always resorted to testing high flow valves to see if it works when I encounter this problem. I see it maybe 50% of the time.

[StrikeFreedom]

For your nozzle sticking to mag seal issue, try to use a stiffer nozzle return spring (top of BBU) to help spring back the nozzle. Personally I use a spring from a lighter. Having the mag seal sitting higher gives you better air seal with the nozzle. In fact, instead of purchasing Nineball/aftermarket mag seal, you can put a shim underneath the stock mag seal to yield similar if not the same effect.


Why can't we get free green gas here?

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Okay, I understand what you are saying now. But, gotta look at it this way... if even Marui spec floating valve can fit in to the nozzle without falling out, then would it not be a given that it's providing a seal? The lip on it holds it in place. The SD's problem is actually that the lip is too SMALL, and as a result, it slips inside the tunnel through the exit port of the nozzle.


I agree with this theory and have always believed it as well. I just haven't gotten it to work successfully yet, but have also not always resorted to testing high flow valves to see if it works when I encounter this problem. I see it maybe 50% of the time.

Ah I see now. I was just making a guess with the SD valve since (to me at least) it would've been the logical conclusion that the SD valve would have a better seal if it gets stuck in the nozzle when it's pushed in all the way. I didn't notice that the SD lip was actually smaller than the stock one. Out of curiosity, did you say that you've only seen the SD nozzle working with 134a gas?

Speaking of floating valves, I thought I'll share with everybody here that RA TECH made a NPAS system for marui pistols. You can get it at Tokyo Model Company here. Seems to be a replacement for the floating valve. For those who dunno what the NPAS system is, it was first developed for GBBRs so that you can control the FPS output of the gun via changing the setting on the NPAS system. I don't think that RA Tech really advertised their NPAS for marui pistols since I only found out about it a week ago. Haven't seen any review for it yet but generally the reviews are good for the GBBR NPAS systems. It's pretty cheap too at 15 USD (HKD 120 at their retail shop) and I think it'll be awesome for people running CO2 guns to be able to limit their FPS for skirmishing purposes and still having the advantages of using CO2 (gas consistency, little cool down, able to use in winter, etc.). I dunno whether you guys can source that part into Canada though...

Originally Posted by StrikeFreedom

For your nozzle sticking to mag seal issue, try to use a stiffer nozzle return spring (top of BBU) to help spring back the nozzle. Personally I use a spring from a lighter. Having the mag seal sitting higher gives you better air seal with the nozzle. In fact, instead of purchasing Nineball/aftermarket mag seal, you can put a shim underneath the stock mag seal to yield similar if not the same effect.


Why can't we get free green gas here?

I'm using a guarder 150% spring already and the gun doesn't go back into battery (or its VERY sluggish when it does). The NB gas router sits about .5mm higher than the stock 1911 router and that's already creating enough friction to prevent the slide from properly cycling.

I haven't tried using a lighter's spring as the nozzle return spring. I'll try it out when I can source it and report back to you guys since my NB routers are just sitting on a shelf right now.

I completely agree with your argument that getting the router rubber to sit higher would create an even better air seal (and I could tell as the muzzle report was louder when I installed the NB routers). But it's sitting too high and I don't want to have a 'perfect' air seal but have crappy slide cycling issues.

I'm actually in my University's wargaming society, so I'm basically using their green gas for plinking/wargaming. It's paid for by the University, so it's 'free' for me (part of the society's constitution; free gas for members) The gas routers are also 'free' since I can always reimburse myself by 'selling' them to the society as they have a couple of high capas with worn out mag gas routers so there's always a use for the NB router set.

[lontearab]

Originally Posted by m102404

The floating valve is in the upper right...the round clip/housing that holds it in place is below it...the nozzle body itself is to the left.

This one is the Shooters Design POM nozzle....others will be different colours/materials. The floating valve can be plastic, SS or brass...depending on what make you have.

Originally Posted by intinerious

My friend got me 2 of those gas routers from gun street today. Tokyo Model Company staff said that they won't fit an MEU/1911. Nonetheless I'll try to fit them tomorrow and report back to you guys.

But assuming it doesn't fit, does anyone have any idea on how I should cut the notch on the rubber gas router efficiently/cleanly as to not mess up the rubber itself? I was thinking of using a small file but again, not sure if it'll work on the elastic rubber surface.



I also noticed that the floating valve that comes with the SD nozzle have is thicker than the stock marui valve, leading to the SD valve 'sticking' to the nozzle when gas pushes the valve to close up the nozzle when the gun is fired.

I dunno whether there is an issue with the stock floating valve slightly 'leaking' gas out of the nozzle when the gas is redirected for the blowback effect (due to the pressure inside the nozzle being greater than atmostpheric pressure) but if you want a perfect air-seal, then using the SD nozzle and the stiffer valve spring that comes with the nine ball dyna piston head may be the solution. However; a high flow valve is probably needed for the valve to close quick enough since I tried it on my stock MEU mag with the SD nozzle + NB valve spring and if I remember correctly I ran out of green gas in 5 to 6 shots.

Does anyone have experience with using high flow valves with 1911/MEU mags? I would like to install them for my MEU build but I don't want a real-cap capacity. If I can shoot 10-15 bbs quickly (as fast as I can pull the trigger) and the slide still locks back, I'll go with the upgrades. So far my stock MEU mag in my MEU can shoot 18 bbs quickly and lock back on the last shot with green gas.

EDIT:

Okay, I've tried out the Nine Ball purple gas router rubbers on the MEU mag.

The size is different from a normal MEU rubber; the hi capa / nine ball ones sit higher than the MEU ones leading to the nozzle sticking to the mag due to the friction between the nozzle and the rubber router.

The rubber also doesnt have a notch for the mag lip pin to go through it. However, the rubber blocking the pin hole only covers half of the hole and if you jam a hex key to squeeze the rubber away from the pin hole while inserting the mag lip pin, the pin will fit right through.

So, although the gas routers FIT the MEU mag, it doesn't fit the whole pistol assembly. Kinda disappointing since I would've thought the NB rubber had the best air seal and now that I can't fit it in my MEU, I will never reach my goal of having the best air seal possible for a GBB pistol.

Originally Posted by intinerious

dunno what you mean by applying oil in gas...

I run these type of green gas exclusively because I've been able to source a whole lot of them for free.

The thing about the 'better' air seal was about the SD floating valve being 'thicker' than the stock one, so when the gas pushes the valve close inside the SD nozzle it gets stuck with the stock spring. Addition of a stiffer valve spring will allow enough potential energy to be stored by the spring when its compressed (when the valve is closed) to exceed the frictional forces between the oversized valve and the nozzle, so the floating valve would still work. The 'better' air seal theory => thicker valve against the nozzle, COMPLETE air seal when the valve is shut and all of the remaining gas that is used for the blow back action WILL be for the blow back action and no gas could leak through the nozzle end due to any gaps between a closed STOCK valve and the SD nozzle. I'm purely speculating the tolerances of the stock valve and the SD nozzle diameter though, the stock valve may already completely block all the gases from escaping the nozzle chamber once its shut. It's really hard for me to explain it via words, but I hope you understand what I'm getting at. If not, I'll try to explain it again when I have the time to think and draft out my post (I'm about to sleep).

I think the thoery behind a high flow valve working with the stiffer nozzle spring is that the 'impluse' of gas rushing into the nozzle chamber (i.e. volume per second) is greater than a stock valve? Hence the high flow shuts the valve quicker than with a stock valve, and you won't get excess gas coming out of the barrel if the impluse is low? (i.e. when the BB is already out of the barrel but gas is still being diverted to the barrel due to the stiffer valve spring resisting the shutting of the valve for the gas to redirect for the blowback action).

I tried adding the stiffer floating valve spring and I can probably get 7 shots off. I don't have a chrono, but I'[m pretty sure the stiffer valve spring probably upped the joules (sorry, not that 'experienced' with converting to FPS since all the airsofters I know in HK generally talk about joules) to1.5 or above. A .2g bb shot through 5 sides of cardboard plus 3 layers of duct tape on the last side of the cardboard.

My current internal setup for my MEU is SD nozzle, stock valve spring and valve, nine ball hop up bucking and nine ball 6.03mm TB; and stock MEU mags. I venture to think that this is combo have the best air seal that you can get with retail aftermarket parts in airsoft shops in the present. I was hoping to go with a high FPS MEU even though I'll have a lower capacity since 1911s ARE meant to be shooting .45ACPs and having the same power as airsoft glocks kinda irks me. Plus, the 1911 mags are meant to hold 7 rounds anyway, so a capacity lowered to 10-15 bbs per mag is fine with me.

I dunno whats up with the weather in canada, but at around 20 degrees celsius here in HK, I can only get 18 bbs out per mag with the slide locking back on the last shot with green gas and shooting as fast as I can (probably 2 bbs per second). Any tips on upping the gas efficiency of my MEU in light of the upgrades I already have?:smile:

I've also noticed one of my MEU mags are very slightly leaking at the gas release valve (stock). it's leaking the gas to where the rubber routers are (so where the gas generally goes when the gun is fired). Is it just because my valve is loose or the o-rings are damaged?

As a side note, how come the 'smile' smilely doesn't work when I post?

Originally Posted by intinerious

Ah I see now. I was just making a guess with the SD valve since (to me at least) it would've been the logical conclusion that the SD valve would have a better seal if it gets stuck in the nozzle when it's pushed in all the way. I didn't notice that the SD lip was actually smaller than the stock one. Out of curiosity, did you say that you've only seen the SD nozzle working with 134a gas?

Speaking of floating valves, I thought I'll share with everybody here that RA TECH made a NPAS system for marui pistols. You can get it at Tokyo Model Company here. Seems to be a replacement for the floating valve. For those who dunno what the NPAS system is, it was first developed for GBBRs so that you can control the FPS output of the gun via changing the setting on the NPAS system. I don't think that RA Tech really advertised their NPAS for marui pistols since I only found out about it a week ago. Haven't seen any review for it yet but generally the reviews are good for the GBBR NPAS systems. It's pretty cheap too at 15 USD (HKD 120 at their retail shop) and I think it'll be awesome for people running CO2 guns to be able to limit their FPS for skirmishing purposes and still having the advantages of using CO2 (gas consistency, little cool down, able to use in winter, etc.). I dunno whether you guys can source that part into Canada though...



I'm using a guarder 150% spring already and the gun doesn't go back into battery (or its VERY sluggish when it does). The NB gas router sits about .5mm higher than the stock 1911 router and that's already creating enough friction to prevent the slide from properly cycling.

I haven't tried using a lighter's spring as the nozzle return spring. I'll try it out when I can source it and report back to you guys since my NB routers are just sitting on a shelf right now.

I completely agree with your argument that getting the router rubber to sit higher would create an even better air seal (and I could tell as the muzzle report was louder when I installed the NB routers). But it's sitting too high and I don't want to have a 'perfect' air seal but have crappy slide cycling issues.

I'm actually in my University's wargaming society, so I'm basically using their green gas for plinking/wargaming. It's paid for by the University, so it's 'free' for me (part of the society's constitution; free gas for members) The gas routers are also 'free' since I can always reimburse myself by 'selling' them to the society as they have a couple of high capas with worn out mag gas routers so there's always a use for the NB router set.

i put all your information in my notepad.
this is very useful guide
many thanks guys

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by lontearab

i put all your information in my notepad.
this is very useful guide
many thanks guys

Most of the stuff I wrote were observations that I made with the parts I installed or theories I made up by observing the different set ups I had tried.

I've probably got a year's worth of experience with the 1911 platform and it's only been the past 2 months that I started to completely disassemble my MEU and started to do internal upgrades to it. So don't assume my explanations for the observations I made are accurate. You should listen to Brian instead of me

I stand by that the Nine Ball mag air seals are too high for 1911 mags and they'll prevent the slide from returning to battery. I tried it again today and only managed to get 2 shots off before the slide jammed.

[intinerious]

I'm really itching to get some high flow valves for my MEU mags, but I'm running low on cash at the moment

I've read a few threads where people cut 2 of the prongs on the standard flow valves to basically turn the stock valves into high flow ones. So I was wondering whether anyone had tried it for thee 1911/meu valves and how was the performance compared with aftermarket high flow valves?

If the stock valve modded into a high flow valve can still achieve a good FPS consistency (I dunno whether anyone considers the stock valves to be consistent; I can't tell myself since I don't have access to a chrono) as well as an increase in FPS overall? I am hoping that the modded stock valves can achieve similar specs compared with the KM high flow valves per Brian's previous post on their FPS increase and variation.

Also, Can the same kind of mod be done to the floating valve to achieve an FPS increase? I'm hoping to boost the FPS as high as possible for the lowest cost and from what I see on the aftermarket high FPS floating valves, there's only 2 prongs on the valve itself and they're made of metal (i.e. Action). I know that the metal ones would work better for increasing FPS regardless of how many prongs it has since its heavier and hence requires a longer time to close the valve against the nozzle, but again they require money. Would modding the stock floating valve risk reliability as the stock valve is plastic and by removing critical structural parts from the valve reduce the durability of the valve greatly?

I'm hoping that I can just mod the stock floating valve, mag valve and add the nine ball stiffer floating valve spring to achieve a high FPS with my current MEU setup. If the mods for the stock valves really work (improve FPS, do not reduce FPS consistency, reliable) then I'll only have to spend money on getting a valve key!

[ILLusion]

modding stock valves to high flow valves DOES work, but in my experience, the gains were not too significant (compared to aftermarket), and they were not as consistent as KM high flow valves. It works as a cheap (free) upgrade, though.

I would not recommend modding the floating valve in the same way, as it is a high stress part, and being plastic, I would imagine it snapping quite easily. I've even seen metal ones snap.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

modding stock valves to high flow valves DOES work, but in my experience, the gains were not too significant (compared to aftermarket), and they were not as consistent as KM high flow valves. It works as a cheap (free) upgrade, though.

I would not recommend modding the floating valve in the same way, as it is a high stress part, and being plastic, I would imagine it snapping quite easily. I've even seen metal ones snap.

Thanks for the reply!

Well, I tried modding the stock floating valve (figured what the hell; I've managed to source a spare one from a hi capa) and tried cutting off one o the bars. I aligned it so that the widest opening faces the opening on the nozzle where the gas from the mag goes and tried a few shots.

What happened was the first shot had a strong blowback, second had a weak blowback, etc.

With this inconsistency in mind, I tried cutting the second bar off so that it mimics a high FPS valve. Again, the same issues occured.

I'll be replacing the modded one with a stock one tomorrow to get my gun to work again, but does anyone have an idea as to why the strong, weak, strong, etc. blowback happens?

Also Brian, have you tried using the nine ball stiffer floating valve spring, with the action (or firefly) floating valve and KM high flow valve as a combination to reach a significant FPS increase? The combo is what I will be getting when I've got the funds (in conjunction with the current stuff I have: SD nozzle, NB bucking and TB and piston head) to see if I can boost the MEU's FPS as high as possible. Thanks again for all your help btw!

[ILLusion]

Sounds like it may be too light, having problems managing with the stiff 9B all floating valve spring.

I have the 9ball floating valve spring, action floating valve and km high flow valve setup in one of my hi-capas right now, and it works well. That combo will not work in all setups.

[intinerious]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Sounds like it may be too light, having problems managing with the stiff 9B all floating valve spring.

I have the 9ball floating valve spring, action floating valve and km high flow valve setup in one of my hi-capas right now, and it works well. That combo will not work in all setups.

Thanks for the reply!

The strong, weak, strong, etc. recoil phenomenon was with the stock spring...nonetheless, could cuting off 2 tiny pieces of plastic from the stock valve really make it too light for the stock spring to work properly?

Do you mind telling me what your hi capa's FPS is?