Modify Torus Mechbox

[Schwag]

Super quick review- no pics.

I just installed a torus reinforced v2 7mm box. It was the easiest box build I've ever done. Went for 7mm vs 8mm because I use bushings, not bearings.
Everything was super clean. Nice matte finish.
Kit comes with torx screws and a key as well as a special tappet plate.

The front of the box has thick rails along the inside just below the cylinder to help stop the v2 front from blowing off, as it commonly does. It looks solid. The only difference between the included tappet and a regular modify v2 are small slots cut out of the arm that holds the nozzle. These could easily be ground out of a regular tappet.

I needed a bushing press to get them in and they sit flush both inside and out. They left a lot of room for shims. I like that. It lets me really fine tune the shim job.
I had to cut some plastic off of the trigger assembly to get it to fit around some of the screw holes but it's an old stock jg trigger assembly and other brands might fit easier.

All the screw holes were perfect. The anti reverse goes in easy and stays put because of a nice little bit of extra metal. Trigger was the same. Easy as hell to close because everything stays inline.

It has big open spots above the gears so you can grease and inspect everything.

Body fits snug around it, lower receiver lines up nicely.

I did have some major issues getting the box to properly connect with the hop up sleeve.
I have a metal jg mp5 body and after much fiddling, I had to shim the hop-up body back; the box down and forward.
This was kind of expected. Metal bodies can be finicky.
I think that in m4s with the spring loaded hop-up body, this problem wouldn't happen.

Overall, the box is the nicest I've ever worked on or seen.

Definitely buy it. All the Modify stuff I've used has been great.

R.I.P to my old stock first-gen jg box. That thing was a trooper. 3 years and probably a quarter million bbs, most of them on lipo at 390 fps. Won't be lending this gun out again. First box I've ever broken.

[coach]

Great to hear. I was contemplating doing a mostly modify build with the torus but opted for a drop in G&P as I didn't want to reuse any of the JG box I blew up. Good to know fitment isn't much of a headache. The torus box is on my to buy list if my current one bite the dust.

[HKGhost]

I have the 8mm ceramic bearing one and I just love it. When everything is installed, nothing pops out or things moving around. The best MB that I've ever used. I may swap out the bearings for bushings though.

[KND]

Originally Posted by HKGhost

I have the 8mm ceramic bearing one and I just love it. When everything is installed, nothing pops out or things moving around. The best MB that I've ever used. I may swap out the bearings for bushings though.

For 8mm, I would go to Bearing. 6 mm and 7 mm then busing is your best bet.

[Sha Do]

Nicely said bro Schwag. The build was easy...I think it took him all of 20 minutes from pressing in the bushings to setting the last screw, but man, the fit in the body was an issue in his old MP5. Which, BTW, has probably easily seen a quarter billion BBs (well, maybe several million).

After all was said and done, it seemed that Schwag is very happy with this product. Though he did have some choice words for the issue on the mating of the hop up to the front of the mech box.

SHA DO

[HKGhost]

Why is it better to use bearings instead of solid bushing for 8mm? I've always believed that solid bushing was better because there is a less chance of failure. I was told that bearings are only good for high ROF and solid bushing are best for high FPS. I'm only sticking with my 8mm bearings because I'm not running a high ROF and I don't have any problems with them.

Originally Posted by KND

For 8mm, I would go to Bearing. 6 mm and 7 mm then busing is your best bet.

[KND]

Originally Posted by HKGhost

Why is it better to use bearings instead of solid bushing for 8mm? I've always believed that solid bushing was better because there is a less chance of failure. I was told that bearings are only good for high ROF and solid bushing are best for high FPS. I'm only sticking with my 8mm bearings because I'm not running a high ROF and I don't have any problems with them.

There is myth behind that, Any thing move should use ball bearing. It has been develop since 1890 or and almost everything has been tried. We're just simply follow and develop.

There is a reason why 8 mm should use ball bearing. In 6 mm, It would cost WAY much expensive to make good ball in those size so 8 mm is pretty decent size for ball bearing to be effective. In RC car, they have been using ball bearing before us. 8 mm or 9 mm bearing can be sustain enough stress with M170 spring, so your 400 fps would be fine.

[Schwag]

I use bushings over bearings for 2 reasons. I run high fps on lipo so the less play on the box, however tiny, the better. And I'm lazy. I like my parts to last. Bushings outlast bearings.

[Whiskey]

Originally Posted by HKGhost

Why is it better to use bearings instead of solid bushing for 8mm? I've always believed that solid bushing was better because there is a less chance of failure. I was told that bearings are only good for high ROF and solid bushing are best for high FPS. I'm only sticking with my 8mm bearings because I'm not running a high ROF and I don't have any problems with them.

Bushings are crap (unless your mechbox is 6mm then you really have no choice). Simple fact bearings have less rotational resistance than bushings and givin you purchuse good quality bearings (kanzen comes to mind) you shouldnt have problems with them reguardless of the load or speed of your set up. Think about the solid steel axle on your gear set, now think about the solid steel bushing. Those two pieces are creating mass amounts of friction when your gear train is moving and both (givin the material density is the same or close) are wearing out causing more and more play between axle and bushing making your gear train less stable and more prone to failure. Yes one may argue that they grease these two parts but the loading from the gear train will eventualy squeeze this lubricant out of the bushing journal and cause metal to metal contact. I am aware that there are a number of brands that produce a bushing with "lubricant grooves'' in the bushing channel but this is not really helping the situation much as there will still be metal to metal contact were the grooves are not cut in the journal ( these groves dont dispurse lubricant they just kinda trap it in 1-2 areas in the bushing journal)
If you have the option for bearings 7mm minimum, I would recomend using them.

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by BLACKWATER204

Bushings are crap (unless your mechbox is 6mm then you really have no choice). Simple fact bearings have less rotational resistance than bushings and givin you purchuse good quality bearings (kanzen comes to mind) you shouldnt have problems with them reguardless of the load or speed of your set up. Think about the solid steel axle on your gear set, now think about the solid steel bushing. Those two pieces are creating mass amounts of friction when your gear train is moving and both (givin the material density is the same or close) are wearing out causing more and more play between axle and bushing making your gear train less stable and more prone to failure. Yes one may argue that they grease these two parts but the loading from the gear train will eventualy squeeze this lubricant out of the bushing journal and cause metal to metal contact. I am aware that there are a number of brands that produce a bushing with "lubricant grooves'' in the bushing channel but this is not really helping the situation much as there will still be metal to metal contact were the grooves are not cut in the journal ( these groves dont dispurse lubricant they just kinda trap it in 1-2 areas in the bushing journal)
If you have the option for bearings 7mm minimum, I would recomend using them.

That's a car.

You're forgetting that the ball bearings in these are TINY are prone to failure. I just sold a buddy a 9mm bearing gearbox which I trust more, because the bearings and balls themself are huge compared to 6mm ones.

I'd still recommend solid metal bushings over bearings any day.

[Whiskey]

Originally Posted by Styrak

That's a car.

You're forgetting that the ball bearings in these are TINY are prone to failure. I just sold a buddy a 9mm bearing gearbox which I trust more, because the bearings and balls themself are huge compared to 6mm ones.

I'd still recommend solid metal bushings over bearings any day.

Yes very much like the crankshaft and rod bearings (there more of a bushing than bearing) in a motor, but they have a constant supply of oil from the oil pump to provide lubrication and help cool the bearings so they do not become warped, un like an AEG's bushings which will eventualy disperse the all the extra lubricant from the bushing journal to the point that only the remaining grease will provide lubrication for a certain period or untill it becomes too contaminated with dirt and metal shavings making it ineffective. There is not a huge aftermarket for 9mm bearings at the moment, but still bigger should be better, well as far as stock bearings go anyways. You should be able to damn near pull any spring you want with kanzen 7mm bearings let alone so it really comes down to the quality of the bearing used not always the size, i'd rather use 6mm kanzens over stock CA 7mm units. If you go bearings buy quality and you should be good to go (as with all aftermarket upgrade purchuses).

[Skruface]

Stock CA bearings are crap. The number one failure I've seen in new CA guns that are brought to me for repair. 9 times out of ten the race fails under load, spewing ballbearings into the gearset and/or piston. If you absolutely must have bearings, go for the biggest/best set you can - preferably ceramics like Kanzen.