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Chopping bb's - splinters in internals: PROBLEM SOLVED

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Old October 12th, 2010, 12:31   #31
Ross
 
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In my city (winnipeg) they sell unjamming rods for a dollar. Oh riko, your npas needed lubing? like do you mean the o-rings did, or in inside of the valve? it's very important to not get the hop up rubber wet.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 12:45   #32
Riko
 
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jeps Ross, the whole npas kit was lubed like hell , except the hop up.
I just took no change and lubed everything
But I did see that the big rubber o ring of at the back end (that connects to your bolt) that part was soooo dry at first that the whole bolt wouldn't even go forward to its first position.
So that certainly had to be lubed for sure.

Cause I heard thats not good if you lube the hop up.


Like I say, lubing those parts, can save you a lot of heartache it seems
ps: you got PM about opening a WE GBBR (Scar) topic with all problems - solutions in it.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 12:45   #33
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Originally Posted by AngelusNex View Post
only come in plastic.
cool! but fucking shit that nobody sells them seperate
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Old October 12th, 2010, 15:35   #34
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Originally Posted by Riko View Post
splintering issue, solved
(see my last post, you have to do the magazine mod, now the npas nozzle is desirable without sanding it )


stacking/building issue, solved
(see first post)
Its simply due to a lack of lubrication, so a very classic problem that just needed a classic solution, lol.
Bare in mind, that the stacking also happened with my stock inner barrel
That was at the end of a long day of shooting, without lubing.
So the barrel didnt matter in that case, it would always stack bb's.


ps: dunno what diagram you have, but part 117 is just a screw in the magazine.....better also call the parts with their name, or give a description.
I see what part it is now: http://www.cobraairsoft.com/images/m...CAR-014-WE.JPG (its part 014 on the net and in my diagram)
I dont see why you should mess with that part. Since its should be used with the stock barrel and with the RA Tech barrels.
Its normal that when you have the barrel in hand with that part at the end and you let a bb roll in, it wont go out.
If everything else works normal, that part will not be the reason a bb is not going out
When we had our problem, it was due to the npas system that wasnt lubricated enough
But like said, all my problems are resolved
Whoops...Part #117 as I know it, is from the M4. There has been some chatter on various boards about modding this part for 3 reasons.
1.hooking bb's
2.nozzle gets stuck
3.stacked bb's

I have done it to mine for reason's 1 and 3 (with success).

I will have to try out the above method to compare. If it works it would be an easier/straight forward approach
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Old October 12th, 2010, 15:40   #35
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Originally Posted by Riko View Post
cool! but fucking shit that nobody sells them seperate
.22 cal cleaning rod. Works perfectly.

You can get one for about 10$ CAD in hunting stores... or any place that sells firearms.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 15:54   #36
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Originally Posted by Kos-Mos View Post
.22 cal cleaning rod. Works perfectly.

You can get one for about 10$ CAD in hunting stores... or any place that sells firearms.
Hunting stores hmm....than it will be metal.
Thats a no go for airsoft inner barrels.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 15:58   #37
Riko
 
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Originally Posted by technosnob View Post
Whoops...Part #117 as I know it, is from the M4. There has been some chatter on various boards about modding this part for 3 reasons.
1.hooking bb's
2.nozzle gets stuck
3.stacked bb's

I have done it to mine for reason's 1 and 3 (with success).

I will have to try out the above method to compare. If it works it would be an easier/straight forward approach
Np

And jeps, i prefer something small thats been added, rather than cut or grinding something
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Old October 12th, 2010, 19:37   #38
Amos
 
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Originally Posted by Riko View Post
Hunting stores hmm....than it will be metal.
Thats a no go for airsoft inner barrels.
Cover it in a layer of electrical tape.

Then it's fine
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Old October 12th, 2010, 22:15   #39
coach
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Originally Posted by Amos View Post
Cover it in a layer of electrical tape.

Then it's fine
Electrical tape adhesive goes gooey over time and can ooze out the sides. Residue can transfer to your inner barrel. Heat shrink works best.
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Old October 12th, 2010, 22:33   #40
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Originally Posted by coachster View Post
Electrical tape adhesive goes gooey over time and can ooze out the sides. Residue can transfer to your inner barrel. Heat shrink works best.
That's only if you buy the cheap electrical tape

I a .22 cleaning rod that's been covered in 3M electrical tape for the past 2 years and it's on there like the 1st day I put it on.
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Old October 13th, 2010, 21:10   #41
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Originally Posted by Amos View Post
That's only if you buy the cheap electrical tape

I a .22 cleaning rod that's been covered in 3M electrical tape for the past 2 years and it's on there like the 1st day I put it on.
fair enough.
or if use is typically in a warm to hot environment. usually happens when left in a hot car.
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