Sniping and hopup tilt

[krap101]

Hey guys,

I'm having trouble keeping my gun level, and the slight tilt is causing the hopup to take over for longer distances. Is there any tips? Shooting more is one thing, but how do you guys take care of it?

[Amos]

More practice.

[Strelok]

you can use the tilt to your advantage when it comes to sniping, its an effective way to counteract any crosswinds. Check my thread in the Tactics section regarding it.

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=97770

[krap101]

Alright. thanks guys!

[ILLusion]

You might consider a level, like this replica:

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...ment_Level.htm

I have one and find it quite effective. It's based on a real world item:
http://www.opticsplanet.net/wheeler-...nt-113088.html

[m102404]

1. Get a bipod that pivots so your rifle can "cant" despite what you're propped up on. Harris makes a tried and true one...versa pod is another type. On some you can tighten up the swivel so it's not floppy but still adjustable to bring to level.

2. If you personally have a hard time determining what's level (some people are just more adept at sensing when something is level and when it's off)....then get a scope mount that has a level bubble built into it. They look like a scope ring with a carpenters level built into it (actually...that's exactly what they are). Some mount so that the level can be glanced at at the 12 oclock position over the scope...others are stuck out the side so you can glance at it with your other eye. Some have little pull out scrolls too...so you can put quickie ballistic cheat sheets there too.

You can do the same thing yourself if you want...just get a carpenters bubble and epoxy it to your rifle/stock/rings. For the forces involve in airsoft it doesn't matter where you put it...but the level must match the rifles optics level.

What you do want to do is ensure that:
1. the rifle itself is level...that's typically done by placing a reference level on a flat part of the rifle...or by having a jig that mates the level to the contours of the rifle
2. the optics centerline is directly above the centerline of the bore...this comes down to the quality and precision of the components (rails/mounts/optic)...which in airsoft can be pretty lousy.
3. the horizontal lines of the optic are level...you either need range and a level on the target (i.e. stick a level line on your target at 50yrs and reference your scope to it)...or lots of guesimation and fiddling.
4. the level that you attach to go with the gun is level with both the rifle and optics marks (note it does not need to be directly over the centerline of the bore, nor over the centerline of the optic).

* it's often a quick cheat to just use the turrets of the scope to sit a reference level on it. Most good quality scopes are machined and assembled quite accurately. Again...quality counts.

As you'll note...you may need up to 3 levels to do this...minimum two. Those level need to be true to absolute level...so you typically have a very precise reference level to compare them against. There is absolutely no point in doing this (for pure accuracy) if you're using crappy levels. That said...it's airsoft and you're not punching one hole groups at a 100yrds either....so good enough is good enough.

[krap101]

I actually do have the wheeler level level level thing, but apparently the vsr-10 doesn't have enough steel for the magnets to stick :P. I've spent a lot of time trying to get my crosshairs level, but they're still a bit off ><

Thanks again

[ILLusion]

The Airsoft Surgeon one mounts to a picatinny rail, so no ferrous material is required for magnets to stick

[krap101]

alright. I think I may try making a mount using my cnc, because 34$ for a glorified bubble level doesn't sit well, especially now, since I just maxed out my credit card, and will probably barely make it through this month. :P