Custom Glock Rail System.

[Ace12GA]

I picked up a Hurricane Glock mount, which is a pretty nice IMHO, but its got some parts about it that bother me. The installation is a pain in the ass for one. The lower rail is pretty lame. The material lacks something, I think its a powdered metal process, but it could be cast too. This is what it looks like:



I like it, like I have said, but I want something better. So I got to thinking about how I would have designed it. I would have used machined aluminum, added a proper rail to the bottom, and made it much easier to install/remove. So I started designing my idea, and this is what I came up with.



Excuse the simple render; the glock is an old glock model I made for a Half Life mod back in 2001. Here is another render of just the unit, exploded into its parts:



Why I am posting this up here is because I want some feedback. I am actually looking into making this unit reality, and I need to know if it would be worth my while to make a run of them. The Hurricane mount I believe retails at Canadian sites for $75. This unit, which would be available for Glock 19's, 17's, and 18's, will be much more robust and rigid. What would you be willing to pay for a unit like this?

Thanks for the time. Your answers will help me decide if I am going to pay for a single run off, or make a 100 or more.

[FOX_111]

Would you be able to do a botom rail for a USP tactical?
I'd be willing to shell some money for just a botom rail, as low profile as possible, to mount an M3 light or surfire X200.

I don't know how long and complicated it take, but my wallet say the cheaper the better.

[pokey]

I really like the design, the compensator really tops it off. I know this is just in very early designing, but if i may i will give a few suggestions.
-A porting or venting on the compensator would really make it look nice
-I think the Upper optic mount rail could be a tad lower to make it more compact and have a lower profile

Just my two cents, though i would share it with you.

--Keenan

[gandar]

I do agree with you on the lower profile on top, but my guess would be that he left that up so you can still use the iron sights if necessary... though with an optic installed I can't see a lot of use for the iron sites... Looks sick though man.

[FOX_111]

A version with an impact plate on the front of the compensator (meat tenderizer) would be nice, with exagerated teath like on the surefire E2D light. :kill:

I agree on the venting port!

[MadMax]

You could reduce a fair bit of material removal by using sheet metal for the uprights. Design them without the ridges at the bottom and get alignment from pressed in dowel pins at the top and bottom.

You also could save some material and total cut path length by nesting the shapes. Shapes spaced one cutter diameter apart would require less total cutting time because they'd share edges with common cut paths. Your machinist could set up a gang of parts by cutting all of the slots for say 20 uprights before cutting the outlines out and freeing the parts.

Screws should pass through clearance holes to deal with variances in screw nominal diameter. Drill four holes at each end of the upright. Two dowel pin holes, two screw holes. Ream the matching dowel pin holes in the upper and lower mid blocks 0.0005" smaller than the pins for a press fit. Ream the dowel pin holes in the uprights to the pin diameter or perhaps with a 0.00025" clearance. Precision reamers aren't expensive if you're doing a batch process, and they make much more accurate holes than drill bits. Drill the pin holes one drill size smaller than the pins (say 0.003" smaller).

There are also other schemes like using dowel pin screws. Look for screws with an accurately ground shoulder close to the head and a smaller threaded end. You can get the clamping feature of a screw combined with the accurate registration of a dowel pin all in one fastener.

Clearance holes in the uprights should be 0.5mm larger (handbook dia).

One other benifit of sheet metal uprights is that you can make common parts for either side.

If you use flat head screws (countersink type) you'll get a lower profile screw which wouldn't snag on a holster. Some of the more exotic holsters might hold pistols with attachments. The uprights would be identical right up until you did the countersinking pass which is an easy thing to change in CNC code.

For surface treatment, don't use powder coat. I goes on a fair bit thicker than anodizing (0.002" vs 0.0005") and isn't perfectly flat. You tend to get a bit of accumulation at edges and corners with p'coat which may interfere with repeatable installation of optics.

[Ace12GA]

Originally Posted by pokey

-A porting or venting on the compensator would really make it look nice

Porting something like this?

[Grim Fandango]

I think two or three jets one each side would look better. It would go with the look of the mount.

[FOX_111]

I prefer Ace12ga's version. Look less bulky.

[Ace12GA]

Well, porting is a non issue right now. In theory I could machine in damn near anything. Right now, I have to think that each additional feature will add additional machine steps, which increase the cost per unit for each additional process. I am experimenting with additional ideas however for the compensator unit, and will post the more interesting ones.

Prototypes would be of the non-ported variety to start.