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Old May 22nd, 2010, 20:30   #1
etd
 
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Tappet plate issues

Alright well I know whats wrong and I am just looking for advice from anyone running a very very high ROF setup. I won't go into to many gearbox details as its not needed. I've broken TWO modify enhanced tappet plates in the past two months. Anyone have any idea on a super super strong tappet plate? I am getting sick of opening up my gun for a small piece of plastic.
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Old May 23rd, 2010, 04:30   #2
Rotting
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Considering Prometheus' reputation for strong products...

http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/ai...te_Ver_III.htm

If a "stronger" tappet plate also fails, consider a flexible one. A very strong tappet plate would take the pressure unwelcomingly, and eventually would crack/snap. A flexible tappet plate would just absorb the punishment that a high-speed setup dishes out, although I'm not sure where to find something like that. At least, that's what logic would dictate.

This might also be an option.

http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/ai...late_Ver_3.htm

After all the problems I had running ridiculously high-ROF, I just got pissed and dropped it for high-torque instead. I'll ask the people around here that still run their high ROF models and see if they have any specifics when it comes to tappet plates.
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Old May 23rd, 2010, 06:13   #3
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King Arms tappet plates are pretty durable.
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Old May 23rd, 2010, 22:07   #4
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What brand of mechbox are you using? Some don't have the proper guide rails for the tappet plate and it is the plate itself that takes all the abuse. You want a rail that extends up to at least the sector gear. The one I have goes under/over the gear to keep the tappet in place.

Are you using a sector clip? If not, you should. It relieves some stress from the little pin on the gear slamming the tappet (distributes the load). Also helps loading the BB better with high ROF.
If you have one, check if it is not pulling the plate past the point where the nozzle is hitting the cylinder head. You can find that by manually cycling the mechbox without the spring/piston. If the plate bends up at the very end of the motion, you are forcing the plate and any brand will break. Change sector clip or file it down a bit to remove that extra stress.

Can you push the tappet plate freely when the mechbox is closed, but the tappet spring is not in place? It should fall down if you point the mechbox up, and vice-versa. If not, your plate is rubbing on the mechbox walls. Sand/file the plate of the mechbox... plate is easier.
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Old May 23rd, 2010, 23:31   #5
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I am having this feeding problem with two aegs at the moment. It's not the mags as they have been checked with lipo setup aegs and they are fine. I am running a prom hard piston in both of the guns and of course the first tooth has been removed this is accompanied by a set of modify high torque SMOOTH geaset (preshimmed). The air nozzles are all proper length btw. Also the tappet plate is not getting pulled back to far (I already checked) and I am using a king arms v3 gearbox.
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Old May 24th, 2010, 00:18   #6
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Hey ETD. Is it your Sig that is giving you the troubles?

Here are some things to consider.

Regarding the tappet plate: Your plate is probably experiencing too much friction in the mechbox. The modify plate should be able to handle the stress, so I believe that friction is present. The high rof setup increases the ill effects of the friction. Try lubing the plate, but often this is not enough for insanely high rates. I have never tried this but have read that you can take individual ball bearings (just the balls) and drill a few indents in the left and right edges of the plate and insert the balls. I don't remember where I read it but I will try to find the article.

Your feed issues can be many different things. Does it refuse to feed altogether or is there intermittent feeding? Does it feed in semi, but not auto?

In a high rof setup certain modifications can be made to increase feed reliability. I noticed you said that the nozzle is of the "correct" length. The correct length can be shaved slightly shorter for high rof. Never exceed 1mm shorter than stock>very important. Try shaving a couple of tenths of a mm from the high rof nozzle, see if it helps. If it is not perfect, shave a little more. Do not exceed 1mm of shaving or you will start to get double feeds (unless you are cycling at a tremendous rate) and you will also lose airseal with your hop-up chamber.

Anyway, some things to think about. It is hard to tell without more info, or actually seeing the problem is nice.

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Old May 24th, 2010, 00:37   #7
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Yeah its both sigs actually. Sig 552 and 556. They both feed perfectly on semi. Once I move from a 9.6 battery to a 10.8 or higher they misfeed on full. They do feed properly for around 2 seconds while holding down the trigger than the double feeding starts. I can't shave the air nozzle as its metal and I am afraid it will tear up my hopup rubber. There is a lot of friction between the tappet plate and gearbox. King arms gearboxes aren't what they use to be. I will try heavily greasing and sanding it down. I do not have the tools to install individual ball bearings for the tappet plate so that's actually a crazy idea but it has the potential to work.

*edit the sig 552 had an upgraded air nozzle - I re-examined it and its actually 3 mm longer than the stock air nozzle. I am going to try going back to the stock air nozzle despite the air leak issues I've suffered with it before. I rather have it feed properly as opposed to mis-feed at high RPMs. I will post an update once I find out if it solves the feeding problem.
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Old February 15th, 2011, 22:21   #8
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I have upgraded 3 aegs (2 m4s and m14). I noticed a significant drop in FPS. I am confident that my compression system has no airleaks. I opened up all three and the culprit was too much friction on the tappet plate as noted above.
It would not move, if it would, there's too much friction.

I had fitted the parts together except the cylinder kit and spring. Closed the gearbox tight and tappet plate doesn't move. The fix is to shave both sides! Test fit again, greased tappet plate sides and the canals then, tightened gearbox (although loosening the gearbox screws would do the trick, but I don't' want to compromise this as there's an easy fix...) and confirmed tappet plate moves freely and without friction.

After some test shots, I was able to achieve the desired FPS.

HTH...
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Old February 16th, 2011, 00:14   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etd View Post
Yeah its both sigs actually. Sig 552 and 556. They both feed perfectly on semi. Once I move from a 9.6 battery to a 10.8 or higher they misfeed on full.
You need a sector clip for a high ROF setup. That will most likely solve your feed issues.
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Old July 7th, 2012, 13:15   #10
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Angry

well i have the same problem and i had broke 3 since i had that m4 aeg
. the second one broke after i fired about 150 rounds non-stop. the 3rd one broke after only 1 shot. i had build the aeg myself and the mechbox is the chewp Cinese JG mechbox with my own mod. any suggestions?
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Old July 7th, 2012, 15:04   #11
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Don't buy a "chewp" chinese mechbox?

Most of those cheap boxes aren't mean for that kind of abuse. Build it from scratch from good components, or at the very least start with a quality base.
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Old July 7th, 2012, 16:27   #12
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If you have that many breakage, then you're doing something wrong. Even with cheapo parts, I've made them work and lasting more than tens of thousands of cycles. Having quality parts will provide the best fitment and longevity, but if you don't fit the parts, they'll fail just like a cheapo part.
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