Jg g36c not shooting and blowing fuses.

[lurkingknight]

is that shot 100 rounds full auto with a new fuse in?

[Stealth]

Is the fuse blowing only in semi?

[DietCoke=]

No that is 100 rounds full auto with a fuse bypass. No issues at all regarding performance or odour.

[DietCoke=]

My first fuse blew on full auto, second fuse blew the second I pulled the trigger on semi

[MaciekA]

You basically need to assess a couple of things:

1) Find out whether you have a short circuit or other wiring issue that occasionally rears its ugly head. The "stops shooting after a few shots" problem is common in JG G36s, and it's usually cured by just taking your entire trigger assembly + wiring out, looking at it, resoldering stuff if necessary, and shoving it back in.

2) Find out whether you have a problem in the gearbox that is causing friction, binding, or any other source of extreme workload.

Regarding #2

- If you have plastic bushings it is possible they have begun to melt/contort or otherwise morph from their original shape. This could account for both strange smells and an unusually high workload for the motor.
- If there is any random debris or other stuff in your gearbox it could be causing extra friction or workload, causing you to blow fuses.
- If you feel brave and want to take the gearbox apart, you will be looking for any signs that the gears cannot move freely when rotated. One way to assess this is to take apart the gearbox, remove the spring/spring guide/piston, leave the gears in, close the gearbox back up (with screws) and spin the gears. If they spin freely, you have ruled out bad shimming and debris.
- It's possible, though unlikely given the JG's adjustment style, that your motor height adjustment screw (i.e. a tiny screw on your motor cage that controls how far up or down the pistol grip the motor sits) has either slipped downwards or possibly gone upwards (or was adjusted too tight in the first place). If it's slipped downwards and the motor barely holds onto the bevel gear, then the lack of contact can cause excessive workload, causing heat and too much current draw. The opposite situation is also true: if the motor's pinion gear is jammed up tight against the bevel gear, then there would be an excessive workload. (edit: what I'm saying here is that the motor having TOO much grip can be bad, and the motor having NOT ENOUGH grip can also be bad. Think about how hard it is to push a large object across the floor with only the surface area of your pinkie, vs using both your flat palms).

You should know that any setup that *sounds bad* to your ears is likely in a bad state. The acoustics of your gun can tell you a lot about what's going on inside.

Finally, I'd like to also mention that your focus/worry should NOT be on your fuse, or worrying about the fuse, or even having a fuse at all. You don't need to run a fuse on a G36 unless you're running an extremely high powered setup, beyond 400fps, beyond 40rps. You are likely doing none of these things. If your gun stops firing and gets warm, just take the battery out and relax. You're not running a 6000mAh 11.1 right?

[DietCoke=]

Originally Posted by MaciekA

You basically need to assess a couple of things:

1) Find out whether you have a short circuit or other wiring issue that occasionally rears its ugly head. The "stops shooting after a few shots" problem is common in JG G36s, and it's usually cured by just taking your entire trigger assembly + wiring out, looking at it, resoldering stuff if necessary, and shoving it back in.

2) Find out whether you have a problem in the gearbox that is causing friction, binding, or any other source of extreme workload.

Regarding #2

- If you have plastic bushings it is possible they have begun to melt/contort or otherwise morph from their original shape. This could account for both strange smells and an unusually high workload for the motor.
- If there is any random debris or other stuff in your gearbox it could be causing extra friction or workload, causing you to blow fuses.
- If you feel brave and want to take the gearbox apart, you will be looking for any signs that the gears cannot move freely when rotated. One way to assess this is to take apart the gearbox, remove the spring/spring guide/piston, leave the gears in, close the gearbox back up (with screws) and spin the gears. If they spin freely, you have ruled out bad shimming and debris.
- It's possible, though unlikely given the JG's adjustment style, that your motor height adjustment screw (i.e. a tiny screw on your motor cage that controls how far up or down the pistol grip the motor sits) has either slipped downwards or possibly gone upwards (or was adjusted too tight in the first place). If it's slipped downwards and the motor barely holds onto the bevel gear, then the lack of contact can cause excessive workload, causing heat and too much current draw. The opposite situation is also true: if the motor's pinion gear is jammed up tight against the bevel gear, then there would be an excessive workload. (edit: what I'm saying here is that the motor having TOO much grip can be bad, and the motor having NOT ENOUGH grip can also be bad. Think about how hard it is to push a large object across the floor with only the surface area of your pinkie, vs using both your flat palms).

You should know that any setup that *sounds bad* to your ears is likely in a bad state. The acoustics of your gun can tell you a lot about what's going on inside.

Finally, I'd like to also mention that your focus/worry should NOT be on your fuse, or worrying about the fuse, or even having a fuse at all. You don't need to run a fuse on a G36 unless you're running an extremely high powered setup, beyond 400fps, beyond 40rps. You are likely doing none of these things. If your gun stops firing and gets warm, just take the battery out and relax. You're not running a 6000mAh 11.1 right?

Haha no just a 1100 8.4. I haven't had any performance issues since I took out the fuse. I did take apart the gun and found no wiring faults up to the motor, though I couldn't get to the motor itself since I couldn't remove the lower. Should I just use it without a fuse since it seems to work fine or will an issue that may not have been fixed cause more damage late on if I don't use a fuse?

[lurkingknight]

to take the gearbox and motor out, there is 1 big screw on the grip plate and a pin just above the trigger. Put the fire selector in semi and the gearbox should pull out the top of the lower.

Be careful not to lose the spring from the fake bolt release.

[DietCoke=]

Lurking the trouble I'm having is that the wires going to the motor go UNDER the selector switch for firing mode. As such if I pull down on the pistol grip area it tugs on the wires leading to the motor. I've been trying to find a way to work around these wires but haven't found a breakdown of this version of the gun.

[lurkingknight]

the motor is connected to the gearbox via a cage... it's a v3 gearbox. So if the pin and screw are out, it will come out all in 1 piece. The wiring really should be routed up and behind the selector, there's usually a tab on the back of the gearbox on v3s to clip the wire to.

[DietCoke=]

I'm afraid the tab you're referring to is on the side instead, and most annoyingly they are routed underneath the selector.

[kalnaren]

I assume you mean the wires are snagging on the arm that connects the selector switch to the selector plate? That's about the only thing in the G36 for it to snag on.

You have to carefully wiggle it out. Another set of hands -one set working the mechbox and the other with a small screwdriver to push the wires out of the way- would probably be really helpful.

Also note that there is a horizontal pin near the top-front of the trigger guard you have to remove that holds the mechbox in. It's not just the screw in the base and the screw in the stock.

[DietCoke=]

So I've asked around and I've been told that the most likely culprit is a bad shim. This explains the combination of fuse blowing together with normal performance when bypassed. I bought some 25A fuses today and it's been fine so far.