Custom pyrography work

[chaz]

Making a set of 1911 grips out of Walnut for a customer.
Rough work is done


Going to be hand burning these logos onto the grips




Along with his step fathers Name and Rank.
Excited to do these for him.
I will post progress here.

MODS: if this is the wrong place can you please move this?

[Wilkie]

Very very cool! That'll look great with the Patricia's logo on there.

[N_Force]

I would like to see how you hand burn these logo on it, I have my first time project to hand burn graphic on shotgun stock also, i have bought the tool, just started to sand the stock and drew pattern already, still need to figure out how to do it right, please educate me.

[chaz]

N_Force - What "tool" did you buy? One thing about pryography is go slow and keep a steady hand. Burn light and darken once you have your lines down. I use a Razertip system. Picking up a couple pens today in order to get the fine detail needed for this project.
Sue Walters is a good person to look up for hints/tips on burning.

[N_Force]

I bought the tools from craft shop for wood hot burn, comes with around 10 tips and two of them are so fine like pin. That's the one I'll use to make the graphic. When burning, will it burn deep a bit? I may try it at the end of the stock to find out. Thank you for your tips.

[chaz]

It should burn deep but my guess is it will be slow and give you uncrisp lines. What brand is it?

[N_Force]

shouldn't post it here but if you don't mind, that is the tool I got it from Michaels and the patent I tried to hot burn half the way right now. It's not easy tho!



my next question is, if I need to stain it and polish it, anything I have to know about? Thanks

[chaz]

Don't mind at all
That is a decent starter burner. I have the same one kicking around.

I prefer oils over anything else. Tung oil or good quality Danish oil (tung with driers to speed the process up), heck you could even use tru-oil.
Most oils you want to keep the wood wet for 10-15 minutes then wipe the excess away. Repeat until you get the desired results. Depending on the wood and how much the oil raises the grain I hit the wood with super fine steel wool.
For polishing after the oil has dried I use the beall buff system. Tripoli polish then white diamond then carnauba wax on buffing wheels. Sometimes I swap out the carnauba for soft interior food grade beeswax to keep the shine down.

Nice work on the stock by the way. Only thing about that burner is how slow the tips heat up and reheat after touching the wood.

Ninja edit: I use clear oils. I like to keep the woods true colouring! Keep in mind oils will darken wood a bit and maple has a tendency to go a bit yellow? The grain on that stock will POP with polymerized tung oil or tru Danish oil. Check out lee valley for some good oils.

[chaz]

Rough pyrography work done on one side.



AHHHH the detail is so fine. I need a ballpoint tip for this shit lol.

[N_Force]

Nice, show us more!

[chaz]

On hold. Ordered 2 new pens to finish the finer detail work
Need to get a nice desk magnifier as well. My eyes hurt after doing that work lol

[N_Force]

Me too, the heat is burning my eyes, but fun. It's killing me. I'm addicted to this new hobby now. I'd done couple of the patterns already! Deer, eagle head, even wolf...... Got to sleep, so tired....
You shouldn't educate me. LOL. But thanks..

[chaz]

Still waiting on a new tip to arrive to finish the custom grips posted above.
But in the meantime, this is what I will be using as a "knife" when I play.