TM P226 with FMK Not Cycling Properly

[jareyes]

Hey all,

So I've been stuck on this problem for a few months now.

Essentially it is a TM P226 that will not cycle. With the OEM plastic body on it, it will cycle perfectly, lock back when empty, etc.

However, with a full metal body kit installed (GUARDER), the gun refuses to cycle fully.
On a charge of gas, the gun will cycle consistently, it just won't cycle back completely to lock the slide back. It will, however, cycle enough to reset the hammer.

It's had the full metal body kit, as well as the following additions:
- 150% recoil and hammer spring set
- Hi-flow valve in mags
- Action power bulb set (includes rocket valve and piston with o-ring)
- extended spring for the rocket valve

I'm pretty stumped, any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[jareyes]

Sorry for the double post, but just to update on this:
After some tinkering, I've noticed that holding the mag in tight against the lower frame improves the cycling, but not to the full extent. From this, I'm pretty sure it can be determined to be a poor seal/mate between the mag upper rubber and the bbu nozzle.

Now ideally, filing and changing the fitment between slide and frame, or between frame and mag is preferably avoidable because of the work involved (precision and tediousness). Is there anyway to improve the seal between the nozzle and mag rubber as it is now? Is there anyway to thicken the portion of the nozzle that meets up with the mag? Any suggestions are appreciated.

[wind_comm]

I've heard of some WE owners basically "shimming" their seals with Gas Line Seal Tape. might be worth a shot.

[jareyes]

I've heard that too actually, and it does work. However, on the area in question, the nozzle is not in a permanently attached state when the gun is working: when the slide cycles, the nozzle accepts the gas from the upper rubber seal on the mag and when blowback is induced, the slide cycles back and brings the nozzle with it.

So I'm not sure where I'd really be placing the seal tape, I could try trimming a bit off the mag rubber so that it can fit higher and then shim the bottom portion of it, but usually cutting anything rubber is ill-advised?

[wind_comm]

*facepalm* I didn't know what you meant until I took a peek at my 229 vs my 1911 (I really should learn the workings a bit better. I guess I've been concentrating on my AEG a bit too much.), and now I see what you're talking about. I had wondered why the nozzle would "stick" to the end of the barrel that little bit longer, now I know.

however, I have noticed that unlike the 1911 design, the loader "arm" on the nozzle _doesn't_ rub the seal on SIGs (haven't noticed any wear on my mags yet), where as the 1911s very clearly start digging a rut out of the seal after a while.

even on my plastic framed KJW, it doesn't look like the seal and the nozzle make really good contact (which would explain why I rarely make it through a full load).

so...long story short, you could probably shim it up a little bit at a time and see if it helps. although I don't envy you in advance because disassembling the mag means taking out those roll pins. freaking hate those things:banghead: