HFC M190 full auto info

[shaharov]

I'm wondering if anyone can explain the mechanical operation of the full auto m190 M9 as opposed to the semi only version.

Thanks

[Armen000]

1 thing i know of for certain is that the m190 full auto has a nub sticking out of the selector switch where as the semi-auto M190 sits flush with the slide. The nub that i am talking about is on the left hand side of the slide, and connects to the left side of the selector switch, via a triangular piece that slides up and down to push on the arm that connects the trigger to the hammer assembly (this is the reason why on the full auto version the selector switch cannot be on safe when removing the slide, if you remove the slide while on safe, you will break that nub and your full auto function will be gone. bum bum BUMMM!). I wish i could find some pictures for you but its such a small piece :P Also one thing to note, to the best of my knowledge if you buy this part from a US retailer or overseas, you cannot convert your Semi auto M190 to a Full Auto M190, ive inspected both models, (i own the semi auto version) and ive came to the conclusion that if installed your pistol will be in "safe" on all 3 postions of the selector switch.

[shaharov]

Thanks, that's why I was curious. I am looking at converting mine to full auto and know that the selected plate (part #30) and trigger bar (part #27) are different but I've sourced out the full auto versions of these. However, playing with the gun I still can't see how this will work, as you said it seems like it would be constantly on safety, unless there's a different sear. But everything I've read states that only those 2 parts are different and the sear is the same. If anyone can shed light on this it would be great.

I know of the shaved trigger bar mod for full auto and will resort to this if needed but I'd rather have select fire if possible

[Armen000]

that is correct both part #30 and part #27 are different on the full auto version. So in order for your semi auto model to not be stuck on safe all the time with the Part #30 added, both part #30 and Part #27 must be replaced


P.S. WORD OF ADVICE!!!!! DO NOT and i repeat DO NOT tamper with your floating valve in your m9!!!!!! it is next to near impossible to find an M9 floating valve!!!!!!! you can modify a hi capa's floating valve to work but it wont be the same

[shaharov]

Thanks armen000. So if I replace part 30 and 27 it should work? If so I still don't understand why (well I guess the trigger bar is lower so it doesn't go on safe). Have you done this or know anyone that has?

Thanks for the advice about the floating valve. Good advice for the future as I have played with those in my GBBRs before. I was only planning on changing the recoil and hammer spring to a 150% set, and see if I can get full auto to work

[Armen000]

TBH i havent done it myself but did a side by side comparison between the trigger links (part #27) and the full auto version one does sit lower in order to accept the nub. To the best of my knowledge and this is no guarantee, but it should work unless there is another part that is different that i am unaware of. The 150% recoil spring is a good idea due to the insanely heavy slide HFC provides, but i would hold off on the hammer spring, or at least not 150%, it just adds too much friction between the trigger assembly, if you could find a 120% or 130% that should work well

[shaharov]

Yea, it's that other part I'm concerned with, guess if it doesn't work I'm out $15, boo hoo. It would be nice to know someones actualy done this and it works befor I purchase the parts

Playing with the pistol with the slide off, I can't possibly see how any type of movement will cause the trigger to fire for full auto

[Armen000]

i know i feel the same way! i wanted to do this aswell but there was too little information and resources to go about the parts and if it will even work or not i wasnt 100% sure, so i just left it alone... BTW were will you be getting these parts from? They arent the easiest to find :P

[shaharov]

Part #30 evike has. I'm also getting a regular semi only part #27 as on the trigger bar the difference seems to be that some of the nub is removed so I'll be using my trusty dremel. Apparently these 2 parts wear out/break on full auto (not surprised) so spares would be in order if it works. But yea, there is 2 little information out there, I guess I'll just try and see what happens

[Armen000]

well after tinkering with my m9 for a lil bit i was able to get my stock hi-capa bulb to work with my m9 flawlessly shooting at 325-340FPS and with the madbull barrel assassins kit 360-380FPS, but here is the part that relates to the thread.... my part #30 (the part that puts my gun in safe) same as yours shaharov, broke off. and now i see some accelerated wear on the tip of my part#27, the trigger link. so for some reason my semi-auto HFC M190 likes doing a few double taps once and a while and sometime full auto! i dont know if anyone wants the full auto function because the damn thing cycles a little to fast for my taste.. it took out about 4-7 rounds in one pull(i was trying to get 1 shot off). BTW i am using a WE 50RND mag King arms 150% hammer spring + recoil spring (works great!!!! if u like alot of wear XD) if anyone was wondering. Heres a quick pic for reference.

Im currently trying to diagnose the problem and i realized the screw that pulls together the internals (refer to pic, i dont know what that part is called) was loose, so now i tightened it and i couldnt be more wrong.... im still getting double tab almost every shot + if i do hold the trigger down it will go full auto wanna switch m9's? :P

[lyphe]

I thought i was the only one with an HFC M190! Mine's full auto with an extension (about 2" of barrel extra) Sorry i can't help with your questions, but i do have some of my own!

My selector switch has stopped staying on the selected mode (FA-SA/-S). It freely moves from one side to the other. I took it apart and couldn't put the pieces of the floating valve (#30) back together. It has a little tiny spring and a plastic piece to hold it in... i'm finding it impossible to put both back into place. But even with the floating valve in place where it was, i wasn't able to figure out what keeps the selector in any one position. I've fixed it temporarily by jamming a piece of black zip tie around the curvature of the selector, but i would like to be able to switch to full auto, and SAFE! Any ideas?

I'd like to take the extension off, i find it unnecessarily long. When i attempt this i find the inner barrel (#74) (i think that's what this part is called) just comes right out. Is it possible for me to shorten this? Would someone want to trade?

Btw i have the manual with a blow up diagram of the internals in case anyone is interested. I can put it up.

[Armen000]

Originally Posted by lyphe

I thought i was the only one with an HFC M190! Mine's full auto with an extension (about 2" of barrel extra) Sorry i can't help with your questions, but i do have some of my own!

My selector switch has stopped staying on the selected mode (FA-SA/-S). It freely moves from one side to the other. I took it apart and couldn't put the pieces of the floating valve (#30) back together. It has a little tiny spring and a plastic piece to hold it in... i'm finding it impossible to put both back into place. But even with the floating valve in place where it was, i wasn't able to figure out what keeps the selector in any one position. I've fixed it temporarily by jamming a piece of black zip tie around the curvature of the selector, but i would like to be able to switch to full auto, and SAFE! Any ideas?

I'd like to take the extension off, i find it unnecessarily long. When i attempt this i find the inner barrel (#74) (i think that's what this part is called) just comes right out. Is it possible for me to shorten this? Would someone want to trade?

Btw i have the manual with a blow up diagram of the internals in case anyone is interested. I can put it up.

well my friend! i had the same problem with that selector switch :P theres a spring that+ pin that are housed in the slector switch on the left hand side, those click the selector into place, i lost my spring so i ordered one from Evike, should be here soon Putting the Floating valve back in place could be tricky at times however i find it easiest to hold the nozzle upside down, drop the spring in, drop the valve in, push the valve retainer in and hold it with a small screw driver, then with your other free hand grab the TINYYYYY screw and drive it home :P

[shaharov]

Armen, In your bottom picture it looks like your missing your part 30 which may cause issues. Also if your trigger bar is worn I'm guessing it will cause full auto and double taps as a mod to create full auto is to shave the trigger bar. This also prevents safety from working.

Lyphe, yea.. the compensator is a little too long. You probably would have to replace the inner barrel (which can be done, I believe) with a shorter one, as long as the outer barrel is in good order. Shortening the inner barrel yourself isn't recommended as any bend or burr will cause issues with firing. Also there is a small pin and spring that is in the safety in the slide that makes the safety go into 3 places. I found that when taking the safety out it springs out and can be lost quite easily without one noticing. If you load the parts diagram I can point it out to you. Part #30 doesnt do this (cause the safety to click in place) but actually uses the trigger bar to select firing mode and safety. Replcement part #30 for the full auto can be purchased from evike

I ordered part 30 and a new trigger bar for my M190 and we'll see if I can do a change from semi to full auto. Also ordered a WE slide assembly for it as it's supposed to be TM compatible (I want an adjustable hopup as I use 0.28bb's in my pistols) and will see if that works and if so if I can do the full auto mod... alotta "if"s. I'll keep you guys posted as to the progress (even try to take some pictures). If everything goes well with what I want to do I may have a full auto slide assembly (m190 original) for sale. Guess we'll see.

[Armen000]

Originally Posted by shaharov

Armen, In your bottom picture it looks like your missing your part 30 which may cause issues.

lol i know, i wrote in my previous post somewhere that it snapped off :P UGH dont spend money on the adjustable hop up chamber! Adjust the one in your current M190 using very small slices of tape :P thats what i did and its amazing how consistent it is!!!!!!! reason i say this is because i used to use .28 too in my pistol when i gamed it outdoors

[shaharov]

I'm guessing without part 30 the firing will be a little erratic in terms of double taps, full auto.. but I could be wrong.. never tried it before. I've used the slide assembly before to make 2 1911's that are excellent so I probably still will give it a try. I do agree that fixed hopup would probably be consistant and don't have to worry about hopup shifting... but I end up having to play with different ammo for different reasons sometimes and the adjustable hopup is handy (and I'm fairly used to it with my 1911's). For me it's a personal preference. I do find the stock hopup on these VERY good.. so I am torn a bit... but I'll give both a test before I make up my mind. =)

Originally Posted by Armen000

lol i know, i wrote in my previous post somewhere that it snapped off :P UGH dont spend money on the adjustable hop up chamber! Adjust the one in your current M190 using very small slices of tape :P thats what i did and its amazing how consistent it is!!!!!!! reason i say this is because i used to use .28 too in my pistol when i gamed it outdoors