Jg g36c not shooting and blowing fuses.

[DietCoke=]

I've had a jg g36c for about 1 and a half weeks. I used it for a game on Saturday and then did some aiming today. I received a new smart charger today and I decided to charge my batteries to test it out. The battery is a Tenergy charger and I alternated between 2 A and 1 A while charging my 1200 mah 8.4 . After realizing I should leave the charger on 1 A I switched it to that and the battery finished charging shortly after ( 20 minutes ). I plugged it in to my gun and after shooting 10 rounds on full auto the fuse blew. I promptly tried a different fuse and battery and I didn't even get one shot off before the fuse blew. Is this related in any way to the charging or did the gun just die on me? What could be a potential problem?

[lurkingknight]

doubtful it's the battery causing it. You have a short somewhere in the system the motor is trying to draw way too much power... I would say there's something wrong with either the wiring or the gearbox... possibly motor height.

What did the gun sound like when you shot it? super high pitched? did it screech?

was the gun taken apart by anyone? while it was shooting, did anything get super hot? Wires, battery, pistol grip?

[DietCoke=]

The gun sounded absolutely find for the 10 shots. The guys over at ultimate airsoft took it apart and changed the spring for me but that was over a week ago. Since then I've played for a whole day without any issues.

[lurkingknight]

have you ever taken it apart yourself? do you know for that matter? Are you comfortable taking it apart?

[DietCoke=]

I have taken it apart before yea. I didn't really delve into the gearbox though. I am comfortable taking it apart yet at the same time averse to doing so since I'm not sure how much I could fix / diagnose on my own in the first place. Of course that much is evident since I am here.

[lurkingknight]

well if you have taken the gearbox out, then you can look a bit farther... pull it apart and inspect what you can see of the wiring and the motor. Beyond that, if you're not comfortable opening the gearbox, then it might be best that you didn't. Though if you are so inclined, it's not super hard. It could just be a short somewhere with a pinched wire that you will see when you get the upper and lower off.


getting into the gearbox would let you check the status of the shimming and the actual trigger contacts.

[DietCoke=]

Should I be looking for anything in particular? Would it be expected to fail now after prolonged use instead of immediately after?

[lurkingknight]

look for cut/pinched exposed copper wire where there shouldn't be copper showing.

Check to see if the motor plugs are on correctly or if they are arcing from the contact to the posts. Sometimes when you jam the gearbox into the lower of the g36 you can pull the wiring out or pull the plate right off the end of the motor.

[DietCoke=]

lurking I just did a fuse bypass and the gun was absolutely fine. But it still blew both fuses. SHould I just go for a higher tolerance fuse?

[DietCoke=]

I did notice an odd smell however, smelled like what a shorted electronic does. Operated fine however.

[lurkingknight]

if you're blowing 30A fuses there's a reason for it... I would find out why before you eliminate the fuse. The next thing to melt will be your wiring.

[MaciekA]

DietCoke, out of curiosity any idea which vintage of JG G36 this is? Any idea if you have black plastic bushings or metal ones?

[DietCoke=]

Are the jg g36 ones 30A? I'm not sure exactly which version this is. It is the one currently sold by toronto airsoft. Mine has white plastic bushing I believe. As seen here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fglq4GK5N8#t=3m55s

[kalnaren]

*sigh*

This is why I don't recommend pulling fuses out. In a properly wired gun the resistance offered by a fuse is so minimal it shouldn't be noticed. If you notice a difference in trigger response and ROF by removing the fuse, the fuse wasn't the problem.

On to possible solutions:

First, the gun is likely using Tamiya connectors. Aside from being terrible for resistance, did you notice them heating up excessively? That could be an indication of too much current draw.

Second, it's quite possible on the G36 to pinch the wires between the mechbox and the body of the gun when putting the mechbox back in. If you know how to take the gun apart, pull out the mechbox and make sure there's no bare wire contacting the mechbox shell. Check the wires where they connect to the motor mounts as well.

Third, I'd look at the contacts where they meet the selector plate. If you're not careful it's possible to bend them when re-assembling the mechbox. If they touch, bad things might happen.

Fourth, I'd actually crack open the mechbox and check the shimming and greasing.

Fifth, when re-assembling, rewire it to deans or another connector with better wiring (I generally use 16 gauge, 14 is better if you can fit it in and 18 only where you can't fit the other two).

[DietCoke=]

Originally Posted by kalnaren

*sigh*

This is why I don't recommend pulling fuses out. In a properly wired gun the resistance offered by a fuse is so minimal it shouldn't be noticed. If you notice a difference in trigger response and ROF by removing the fuse, the fuse wasn't the problem.

On to possible solutions:

First, the gun is likely using Tamiya connectors. Aside from being terrible for resistance, did you notice them heating up excessively? That could be an indication of too much current draw.

Second, it's quite possible on the G36 to pinch the wires between the mechbox and the body of the gun when putting the mechbox back in. If you know how to take the gun apart, pull out the mechbox and make sure there's no bare wire contacting the mechbox shell. Check the wires where they connect to the motor mounts as well.

Third, I'd look at the contacts where they meet the selector plate. If you're not careful it's possible to bend them when re-assembling the mechbox. If they touch, bad things might happen.

Fourth, I'd actually crack open the mechbox and check the shimming and greasing.

Fifth, when re-assembling, rewire it to deans or another connector with better wiring (I generally use 16 gauge, 14 is better if you can fit it in and 18 only where you can't fit the other two).

I took apart the whole thing but left the motor in the grip ( I can't get the wires past the damn clamp ). When I took it apart I reconnected the forward connectors and checked elsewhere and the wiring seemed fine. After putting it back together there were no odd smells and it shot absolutely perfectly for 100 rounds on full auto. Both fuses I used were the stock jg ones btw.