Some UTG MP5 mods I did. (56k no way)

[nemesis_83]

Well, I decided that I'm going to push this gun to its limits since everyone thinks its one of thoes "chinese pieces of crap"

so I did the following, including relocating the battery, this allows me to use a bigger battery and it is much faster to change should I ever have while playing.



Taking the gun apart was simple, the body has 3 or 4 screws holding it together. as you can see, having a small screwdriver set somes in handy even though most of the work was done with a normal philips.

There are 2 screws inside the grip that hold it to the gearbox.



This is the gearbox, it is pretty solid if you ask me, the finish is nice and it comes together quite smoothly with no gaps in the seams.



The inside of the gearbox, wow looks like TM internals, shame on UTG for stealing the TM design :P but the price is right.

Ok, on to the wiring. I decided it would be a good idea to change the wiring to 14 guage, the main idea of this project was to relocate the battery, but then I wanted this and that...you know how it is, so the following was done.

-Metal bushings (not shown)

-M110 comparable spring (not shown)

-14 guage wiring

-Battery relocation

-Shim job (not shown)

-Bigger connectors

Note: by doing this wiring modification, you will be eliminating the wiring going to the front of the gun, in some cases there is a clearance issue due to the wires running between the gearbox and body, I noticed that the body of the gun comes together much better after eliminating the wiring going to the foregrip.





This is where I wanted the battery to go, This way I can use something much bigger than the mini battery that sits in the foregrip. There was a cement block in here for weight distribution purposes, I relocated it to the foregrip with some modification.(writeup below)



This is the new wiring, I used NOVAK RC car 14 guage wiring, its about 9 bux for 3 feet of both black and red. not bad if you ask me.

As you can see the 14guage wiring wont fit in to the gearbox, I just soldered it as close to the stock wiring as I could.

If youre going to do this, run the wires in the same configuration, do not forget which wire is + and which one is - on the connector, you will mess up your polarity and might damage something. Also, remember that when putting new connectors on (as you will not be using the small connectors) you will have to do the same to the charger, DO NOT get that part mixed up either.



So here we have the completed product, note the location of the fuse, some people decide not to use a fuse but I did just in case, trust me it helps to have one just in case.





The length of wiring should come out past the stock a bit, you will be putting connectors on and will need to cut to the desired length, the stock is quite roomy so you can have some wire in there, just dont have too much.



here is the completed product, you can now use a 7.2V RC car type Cell battery, it fits in to the stock nicely. if you plan to stick with the mini battery then wrap it in paper and electrical tape, since it will flow around inside the stock.

Relocating the cement block to the foregrip.

The reason for this is that since you will be uring a battery in the stock then there will be no weight in the front of the gun and it will feel wierd.

this can easily be elimintated by moving the cement block out of the rear of the gun and in to the front.



Teke the buttplate off and remove the cement block, there is tape on it, remove the tape.

cut the cement block to the length shown, there is a plastic part on the foregrip section that will interfere with the block, it is a bit too long anyway.



Here is the block compared against the mini battery, this is the shape we will be cutting out of the cement block.



Here I am, hard at work, I couldnt find anything to cut with so I used a diamond cutter and a drillpress, takes a while but works good.
Note: There is a metal piece of wire inside the cement block, this can be bent to the point where it breaks ir simply cut through it with a hacksaw, I didnt have one at the time so I just used pliers and broke the 2 sections apart.

Make sure to cut a 1cm groove through the middle of the block, this allows for barrel clearance, you gotta play around with this.

once youre done, wrap the block in tape.



This is the finished product, well this is what is should look like. mine sits in the foregrip nicely and dosnt rest against the barrel (it shouldnt)

Although I removed alot of weight from this block by nearly 50%, the difference with and without the block while havig the battery in the stock is quite noticable, infact the gun feels wierd if I use the battery and have the block removed, I keep mine in there for good, since I Never have to take the foregrip off to change batteries.

If there is anything that you see I missed or would like further info, leave me a PM and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

Sorry about the size of the pics, but at least they are detailed.

Once again, thanks for your time guys, happy and safe Airsofting:wink:

[jaymz1911]

Intresting... Nice work on the mod :hammer: :smile: :wink:
Just one question? where was the cement block from?

Vary good illistartion....

:cheers:

[Lokes]

Awesome write-up man. Great pics, and great ideas!

Thanks!

[Mantelope]

How is changing the guage of the wire helping if you're only changing some of the wiring? My high school physics education tells me that that will only decrease performance.

[nemesis_83]

Originally Posted by jaymz1911

Intresting... Nice work on the mod :hammer: :smile: :wink:
Just one question? where was the cement block from?

Vary good illistartion....

:cheers:

Thanks.

The block already comes in the stock of the UTG MP5.

Originally Posted by harleyb

How is changing the guage of the wire helping if you're only changing some of the wiring? My high school physics education tells me that that will only decrease performance.

Well, I have no idea really, It was mentioned on Arnies Airsoft and the hobby shop didnt have 16 guage, so I went with the next best thing which was 14, it is a much higher quality wire though, so seeing that most of the crappy wiring was eliminated, this should have some sort of an effect.

The gun does fire a bit better, seems that the rate of fire went up a bit than it was when I had the stock connectors and wiring going to the front.

[CDN_Stalker]

Originally Posted by harleyb

How is changing the guage of the wire helping if you're only changing some of the wiring? My high school physics education tells me that that will only decrease performance.

I was going to mention something like this, but not quite. Use larger sized wire to make lower resistance (old wirie data sheet in my lap now, assume stock wiring of an AEG is 18AWG, it has a resistance of 6.5 Ohms per 1000ft, where 14AWG has 3.2Ohms). But only using some of the old wire and tagging onto the new thicker wire doesn't do anything at all, just keeps the resistance sitting at whatever the smaller stuff does.

If you want to look at it from an amperage point of view, the larger wire will carry more current than a smaller wire will (less resistance, higher capacity). 18AWG can handle up to 16 amps, 14AWG will carry up to 32 amps. My point being, if you run over 20A of current though that wiring, the 14AWG will handle it fine, but the 18AWG will heat up and possibly burn the insulation off, causing a short.

Anyways, back to the thread. Is interesting to see so many similarities between that gun and the TM MP5s. Looks like that one is much easier to take apart too, since the TM ones have to be almost completely disassembled just to get at the hop up unit. Shaking my head over the cement block in there though, that's hilarious! How have you found the performance of it so far? About the same as TM? And you mention the rate of fire went up since you did all this, what mAh battery did you use before, and what after? Sounds like you went from a 600mAh battery to a 1200 or 1700mAH battery. If so, that's why you have a higher rate of fire, the motor can suck more juice out of the larger mAh battery and can run faster with upgrades.

[nemesis_83]

Actually it was a 7.2v 2300mah, lol, maybe thats why, anyway like I said, the store had only that wiring, weather or not it made a difference, well there are many variables.

As for performance, well, no problems yet, I just went through 6 hicap magazines, I must say the UTG hicap magazines are awesome, feed well and never jam.

The gun shoots well, no jams yet and I have put well over 5000 rounds through it.

The new spring is awesome, I wish I had a camera so I could record how this gun fires.

Accuracy wise, its not bad considering the shitty BB's I'm using, I can pin point pop cans at over 25 meters, my next mods will be a longer barrel(home made offcourse + another writeup) conceiling this barrel will be a home made supressor.

I'd like to first get a quick charger and some 3000Mah 7.2V batteries that I will modify to 8.4V since I got some spare cells lying around.

All in time though.

[CDN_Stalker]

Good stuff! So, where did you pick up this gun? I already have an MP5, so not likely to get another (unless maybe a PDW at some point), but am curious what price you paid for it.

[nemesis_83]

Under $200 after picking it up.

[Mantelope]

I'd recommend against just adding another cell to a 7.2V battery... cells that are in the battery have a different profile than the one you'd be adding, even if they're the exact same brand.

[CDN_Stalker]

US or CDN? And in the US/overseas or does a retailer in Canada have it?

[Kid]

seems CanadianAirsoft will be stocking these for $260, "IN TRANSIT"
http://www.canadianairsoft.ca/ViewItem.php?ItemID=166

[Dro]

Cool site, I never heard a canadian retailer that sells UTG and such.

[nemesis_83]

Originally Posted by Kid

seems CanadianAirsoft will be stocking these for $260, "IN TRANSIT"
http://www.canadianairsoft.ca/ViewItem.php?ItemID=166

I hope they get the AK

[Cortexburn]

260...for something that's 99 US.....too much. If it was <=200....then I'd consider it.