|
|||||||||
|
Home | Forums | Register | Gallery | FAQ | Calendar |
Retailers | Community | News/Info | International Retailers | IRC | Today's Posts |
|
Thread Tools |
February 16th, 2006, 07:11 | #1 |
chrome plating wanted!
Ive been looking everywhere for someone who knows these things and can re-finish my p14, because I already took of the paint and its silver but it KEEPS turning dull again and again.
I have tried everything, and before I turn to home plating kits, I want to inquire if anyone knows of someone or does plating, re-finishing somewhat professionally in the gta. P.S (I would like a nice tone of silver or a dark chrome) thanks.
__________________
"Killing is Badong" |
|
February 16th, 2006, 07:50 | #2 |
How about a really good gunsmith that is not anti-airsoft? Are there any of those in the GTA? Maybe you should try folks like that first. I dont live there, so I dont know.
You are working with alloys, not steel. Expect results for things meant to be used on steel to not work very well on alloys. That is why a lot of the more modern guns have a parkerized type of finish. When you use one for 'work' the last thing you want is a shine or a glare. The entire point is to not reflect any light/glare. This is an Upgrades and Modifications question, by the way. Dig through that section of the forums? |
|
February 16th, 2006, 09:04 | #3 |
Delierious Designer of Dastardly Detonations
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: in the dark recesses of some metal chip filled machine shop
|
Nickel plating is easier on a hobby scale. There are electroless kits available in Canada from Caswell (hit up Google). There are locations in Ontario.
__________________
Want nearly free GBB gas? |
February 16th, 2006, 16:24 | #4 | |
thanks greylock but yeah i asked around before and there was this "huh" look on the gun smiths face hahaha, also it seems like the internet is the only way i can get wood grips because the gun smith normally says "i use hogue or tape"
Quote:
thanks.
__________________
"Killing is Badong" |
||
February 16th, 2006, 16:31 | #5 | |
Quote:
|
||
February 16th, 2006, 16:43 | #6 |
A buddy of mine used to do Chrome and Gold plating on cars.
From what I understand, most of the parts he worked on were the "logos" or whatever they're called ("Ford" "BMW" etc etc.) which are plastic, for the most part. I thought that they dipped them in some chemical or something, but the way he explained it, it's like rubbing two sticks together, like you were trying to start a fire, and it rubs off onto the logo. Dunno, never seen it done, but I guess it's pretty cheap and easy. Now, this may be a totally different process for nickel plating, I don't know... but it couldn't hurt to look into it if you can't find another source. |
|
February 16th, 2006, 16:49 | #7 | |
Quote:
before you invest money, try polishing it with a rag and some compound and then buffing it with a dremel or other polishing tool. it will dull in time, but just redo the process.... try it... |
||
February 16th, 2006, 17:11 | #8 |
Delierious Designer of Dastardly Detonations
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: in the dark recesses of some metal chip filled machine shop
|
There are also acrylic clear coats for preserving the polish on aluminum. Check Caswel. I think some automotive aestheticians also carry the stuff for rims.
__________________
Want nearly free GBB gas? |
February 16th, 2006, 18:03 | #9 |
If its aluminum your gona need to have it nickle plated (which most chromium platers do in this case) and then have it chromed. Honestly look at the metal energy potential chart see what you want. Get the metal you want with an anion that is enert (eg. Nitrate) and plate it yourself. You only need a few volts to be honest. If you get a home plating kit i am sure you can make good with it. Remember when you plate its a logrithmic curve for the adherance of the metal as the cation cannot get to the cathode easily when its coated so increasing the voltage at the end is vital. Your gona want clean it well to eliminate finger oils (if it has other contaminance try baking it for only a few minutes) Paint it with a laquer on the areas you dont want the metal to plate to prevent fitting issues. After you nickle plate sand it, and clean it off WELL, and then chrome it! After its chromed polish vigorously haha.
I hope that manusript i typed helps you some, and yes i have done electro plating however i am westcoast so i cannt help you. |
|
February 16th, 2006, 18:45 | #10 |
Heres a simple and low-cost solution:
It's an aluminum/alloy which means it doesnt rust...my suggestion is polish it up, the result can be even better than chrome. Go to a local hardware store (canadian tire) and purchace the following grids of sandpaper: 220 dry (take off texture/imperfections) then 320 wet, 400,600,1000,1500 and 2000 grid (all wet). Do them all In order for a good 15-20 min each and at the end pass some high quality mothers polish (billet polish)...pass it 5-10 times...you should get a chrome result like my scooter wheel (still took a good 26 hours for this though!) http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...g/DSCN3162.jpg
__________________
-TM replica mp5/a4 upgrades soon to come -some wally springer for basement games at my friends :fro: |
|
February 17th, 2006, 14:08 | #11 |
Thanks
Wow i wasn't expecting so many replies, thanks a lot guys well before I try out this step to step procedure of chrome plating, I will give this poilishing gig another shot and add the enamel or clear coat this time, see the thing with kj is they don't use the greatest of alloy in thier guns i have noticed. i mean sure its fmu and all but when it comes to quality ur better of with a tm or wa or alike but those guys have that anti metal law.
anyways apreciate all the help i will do this procedure again. i already have some polishing compund left over from the last run, but this time i shall add the acrylic clear coat, there's some in the house by krylon (permanant clear coat). so ill give it a shot and hopefully itll work, either way ill post the before and after pics for u guys. thanks again.
__________________
"Killing is Badong" |
|
February 17th, 2006, 18:39 | #12 |
don't put any clear coat after the polising;
1. It won't adhere because the metal had close to no more texture 2. It will dull the polish job and become a grey
__________________
-TM replica mp5/a4 upgrades soon to come -some wally springer for basement games at my friends :fro: |
|
February 18th, 2006, 16:50 | #13 |
I got a dremel and it takes off the paint great.. now I just gotta get some oh wait it comes with fine grit sandpaper.. well nvm time to wetsand it
__________________
No Comment. |
|
|
Bookmarks |
|
|