12v battery, and sp120. What gear set should I run?

[pinoyboy]

First of all, let me start by saying that if you don't have any advice pertaining to my question, I'd like you to refrain on commenting,spamming the thread that running a 12v batter y is stupid, ludicrous, etc.. I've heard it a million times, and if you are spending your time to make these comments, no offense, but you should find something else to do with your time besides ridiculing others.

Anyway, thats the setup I want to run. I already have the batteries, but I plan on ordering the sp120, systema STU motor, and a gear set, but I don't know which gearset to choose. I wanna keep my rof somewhat high, but not so much that my motor will be overpowered by the spring, causing it to burn out prematurely.

My setup before was 12v, sp110, EG1000, with high speed gears. The ROF was too fast for my CA hicap to feed, so I got some dry firing. A little after that, my EG1000 was over heating, and after about 30-50 bbs had been shot, it would seize. I would have to wait around a minute before I could fire again. The motor was about 3 years old, but I also think that the motor was being strained alot too from that setup.

Any advice would be great. I'm hoping to order this setup this week, and get them installed by saturday. thanks in advance!

[Eddie]

12v is stupid and ludicrus and if you've heard it a "million times" why are you still asking?

Highspeed gears don't need a 12v battery to operate hell a 9.6v or 8.4v it enough to give a high ROF without causing misfeeding.

[pinoyboy]

wow, thanks for listening to me. You are a very mature. I just knew that if I had put that, I'd knew I'd get an immature comment from someone sooner or later. Congragulations, you get a golden star for being that person

[Kokanee]

1. I run a prometheus ms120sp spring in my m14 w/ a 8.4v 3000mah battery, and it works great, so yes 12v is overkill. But hey, it's your money....

2. I would suggest a set of systema super torque up gears to slow the ROF and ease up the workload on your motor a bit.

I ran a set of them in my rpk which was pulling a PDI 170% at 390 fps w/ the above mentioned battery and the ROF was nice, never any feeding problems. The m14 now, with the same battery and a comparable spring has a much higher ROF, but not getting any misfeeds so i'm happy.

Next time if you could please provide specifics with your problem? Like what gun/gearbox is this? I am assuming v2/3.....

[pinoyboy]

Thanks for sticking to the topic. This is for a v3 gearbox on a G36K with a 509mm tightbore

[Kokanee]

v3 seen - what I said above is still valid then, goodluck.

[Gryphon]

Eddie's reply has nothing to do with maturity; call your own into question for being stupid enough to try using it as an insult. What, the people on Arnie's didn't give you the sugar coating you wanted to hear? Or did you figure no one here reads that board too?

Guess what. Guaranteed most people here are smart enough to realize that your setup is beyond asinine and will post stuff like Eddie did. If you don't like that, stick to your own boards where skilless BB hoses are encouraged because here in the Great White North, they're not.

If your skill is lacking enough that you require four-digit fire rates, perhaps you ought to investigate this avenue instead: http://www.pipersprecisionproducts.com/

[pinoyboy]

Sorry, I'm not one to be into the mil-sim stuff. I'm more into this as a hobby, and i'm just experimenting with setups.

Sorry if I may have stepped on anybodies toes, but I was just getting annoyed by all these negative comments when i'm trying to experiment with things. I've heard it when I asked about cryotreatment, and running a m120 spring with high speed gears

[Gryphon]

I think the misunderstanding lies in that you didn't illustrate what the intended use was. Experimenting and target shooting is a lot different from gaming, and you're likely to get very different reactions depending on which one you're doing. Sorry if I came across rudely, though I envisioned someone walking onto a field and hosing people down with a full hicap at 2000+ RPM and thinking, "My God, WHY?"

I suppose let's start off by first asking, exactly what kind of ROF are you wanting to achieve, and what does the current setup give you?

[pinoyboy]

I actually never did measure the rof, but I took the gun dry firing on a wound hicap too fast. I Know the easiest way to slow it down is go down to 9.6v, but I already spent $100 on batteries.

Now that i've experimented enough, I want to get my rof down so that I could play in a skirmish and reduce the risk of mechanical failures. The ROF i'm looking for is some where around what an AEG with an 8.4v or a 9.6v has.

[Gryphon]

Well the problem with that is your motor isn't designed to take that kind of voltage and will be prone to burning out prematurely. The nice thing about battery packs is you can usually add or subtract cells easily simply by pulling the battery tabs off and resoldering them to the other cells. In your case (I'm assuming a double barrel Sub C pack) you could pull two cells off the end and have a perfectly acceptable 9.6V.

Failing that, torque up gears are always going to slow your ROF down. The higher the torque level on the gears, the larger and fewer in number the teeth get changing the ratio accordingly. They also have the benefit of increasing your battery life by pulling the spring more efficiently, thus putting less of a strain on your motor. I don't know if that's a good thing or not with the voltage you're running.

I'd recommend probably a super torque up set of whichever brand you prefer (I like Prometheus stuff). That's typically one step higher than torque up, and one below max torque up. It ought to give you a decent ROF combined with the spring but still avoid stripping teeth off the piston.

Hope this helps!

[Greylocks]

Originally Posted by pinoyboy

Sorry, I'm not one to be into the mil-sim stuff. I'm more into this as a hobby, and i'm just experimenting with setups.

Sorry if I may have stepped on anybodies toes, but I was just getting annoyed by all these negative comments when i'm trying to experiment with things. I've heard it when I asked about cryotreatment, and running a m120 spring with high speed gears

There are many ways to say 'no', you got several. What you propose is to create your own money pit, mixing things that will break because you feel you want to experiment. Period

Next time you want to try something dumb and expensive, dont bother asking if it's smart when you know the answer, and are not ready to accept any answer but "YES, COOL!". Just do it and find out for yourself.

I dont care where you are from, by the way. Stupid plans dont have border limits.

[PoFF]

Ok, first hand advice here,

My former G36 was called the BB hose (also known as the Piston Stripper). It ran on SP100, Hi-Speed Gears, Hi-Speed Motor, Bearing Pistonhead, Spring guide and Bushings, Polycarb piston, AND on a 12V 10000mAh remote battery all wired with 12 AWG wire. My objective was to achieve the highest ROF possible, but I instead got the the highest CTF (Cost To Fire), I'll elaborate more on this.

First, the RoF was averaging the 1500 RPM (25 shots per second), and only worked fine with Lowcaps, as the hicap mechanism was simply not fast enough to keep feeding at this rate (misfired 2 shots on 3). A lowcap at this rate of fire last 2 seconds. Also, you might have to face the wrath of your fellow airsofters as by the time you squeeze and release the trigger, no less than 15-20 BBs are gone.

Also, the longest working string for this gun was 2 hours, in the whole year I had this gun setup in this config, I've stripped 6 pistons, all guarder Polycarbonate. The first tooth was ripped off the rest of the piston in all cases, due to the fact that the gears are spinning so fast that the sector gear re-engages the piston on the way back while it barely finish it's forward motion, this creating an incredible amount of stress on the first piston tooth.

I finally downgraded to a 9.6V and a Prometheus piston, which gave me a very adequate RoF, and the gun proved quite reliable this way.

Bottom line, 12V ain't worth it. If you really want to run on 12 Volts, don't put anything high-speed in your gun, and keep a good provision of motors as you'll burn them quite fast. Also, Systema STU motors run both faster and stronger than an EG1000, your RoF won't change much with a SP120 than with that EG1000 and SP110 combo.

The best gearset in your case would be the one with the lowest ratio (i.e. Highest Torque) to compensate for your hot battery. It will probably be easier on your motor too as it will be easier to wind up the spring with a low-ratio gearset.

you get the situation where the gears spin so fast that the spring doesnt get a chance to fully complete its firing cycle and gets hit by the gears during decompression. suxored

want fast, run a 9.6v, reinforced standard ratio gears, and an eagle force motor.

lowcaps and midcaps will prolly be able to feed any ROF, but a hicap cant. Even electric drum mags wont, not without shredding their own gears.

cant imagine what your trying to do though, if you need to let off +30 rounds per second in a scrim, you must be blind or just plain shitty. Its really stupid...I donno how you do things in the US, but here, you get hit once and you are out. Worst case scenario, you get hit by a volley and the only reason you got hit more then a few times was from the delay of you yelling hit and the shooter releasing the trigger.
Heck, when I feel a BB, I call hit, and I dont expect to get hit again. With a rof like that, and looking at around 400fps, anyone you hit is gonna get hit countless times. There is overshooting and then there is dangerous overshooting. If it was me, youd better be damm cerful about how many times you ended up hitting people...finding your teeth in a pile of BBs prolly isnt easy.

[pinoyboy]

Alright, I'm gonna slow it down, to get it somewhat reliable. I went with an EG1000 and some sytema torque up gears. Hopefully, that will be adequate enough