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June 5th, 2008, 23:12 | #1 |
Installing a stock...
Hey guys,
I'm trying to fit a KA MOD stock on my G&P m4 metal body... i understand how to instal the stock itself...but can't find where to put the wires..maybe i need to modify something i dont know. I tried to look everywhere on the internet and i did not even got a true instruction manual ( i got a systema m16a2 gearbox (rearwired) ) thanks :banghead: |
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June 5th, 2008, 23:16 | #2 |
Red Wine & Adderall
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It should just be a matter of running the wires out the back of the reciever.
Hopefully you have the correct G&P reciever as there are two types an A and a B, one is for front wire one is for rear wire. If there is no space to run the wires, a little work with a dremel can fix that. If you do have the correct reciever running the wires is as easy as snaking them out the back and along the bottom of the recievers tube (or inside if there is a notch to do so) and then sliding the stock tube on. If you dont, its a fairly simple operation with a dremel to make the neccesary spacing to put wires out the back.
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"Its only a little bit on fire" |
June 5th, 2008, 23:20 | #3 |
i have the one with that hole behind for the wires...the receiver is clearly designed for rear wiring...
But that hole isnt lined up with the stock, it's just a centimeter under. If you have msn messenger maybe you could help me step by step if you feel like helping somebody |
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June 5th, 2008, 23:24 | #4 |
Red Wine & Adderall
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The hole doesnt have to line up. Just run the wires underneeth through that hole! and it will be a little bit of a push but you should be able to slide the buffer tube over the wiring after and reciever tube afterwards. If the wiring is fat you may shave off some of the plastic insulation when doing so, however I would think the King arms buffer tube would have a little extra space inside for that, or atleast the G&P body should be a little flatter on the bottom of the reciever tube to make room for the wires. Its perfectly fine if the wires dont go into the tube through the back right off the start.
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"Its only a little bit on fire" |
June 5th, 2008, 23:29 | #5 |
The wiring on my HK416 is quite fat and (before I switched to a full stock) it used to fit just as T7 described without the need for shaving the insulation.
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June 5th, 2008, 23:31 | #6 |
Red Wine & Adderall
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Just to be clear I wasnt recommending shaving any off, I was just attempting to say that if it was real tight the stock tube may shave it off while you were pushing it down. If that were the case I would grab a dremel and flatten down the bottom of the recievers tube by half a mm or something.
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"Its only a little bit on fire" |
June 5th, 2008, 23:37 | #7 |
June 5th, 2008, 23:43 | #8 |
Red Wine & Adderall
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Gotcha.
Thread the Tamiya head through the bigger ring on top. You may have to dremel a nick out of it to fit but you should be able to force it down. Wait wait...is that the full length of the rear wire? if it is you may require to do some cutting and soldering to extend the length of the wire all the way down the stock tube.
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"Its only a little bit on fire" |
June 5th, 2008, 23:48 | #9 |
yes... :banghead:
i think getting a full stock from airsoft parts since i was already ordering a DMR to retap my front end threads.... |
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June 5th, 2008, 23:50 | #10 |
Hang on. Just took some pics of the step-by-step of installing the wiring. I'll post them as soon as I get them reduced in size and uploaded.
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June 5th, 2008, 23:53 | #11 |
June 6th, 2008, 00:07 | #12 |
I installed the stock from my HK 416 onto my C8 carbine, and it's all in pieces right now, so it's no problem to do this.
In this first pic, I have the leads coming out the rear of the mechbox. I just noticed in your pic, your wiring has a tamiya connector right at the mechbox. You won't be able to fit that into the stock. You're going to have to solder a longer wire in order to be able to fit yours. But this is what I have on mine. In this next pic, I've disconnected the mechbox leads from the battery leads. They're installed with these little connectors. Here I've threaded the wires through the small hole in my stock ring (or whatever it's called) / sling loop. I've now run the battery lead down my stock tube I've not made the connection of the mechbox leads to the battery leads, and I'm sliding the stock tube onto the buffer tube. Note the small notch in the stock tube that the wires are in. There' plenty of space to run wires through here. Now the stock tube is compeltely attached and only needs to be attached using the bolt and washer. Note that the washer used for crane stocks is not totally circular and has a 'flat spot' to allow the wiring to run down the stock tube without being pinched. As I mentioned earlier, from seeing that tamiya connector right at the rear of the mechbox, you may need to do a little more work before you can finish the install.
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June 6th, 2008, 00:40 | #13 |
Tys
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In Crunch's 5th picture (the close up of where the wires enter the buffer tube), you may take note that the buffer tube has an opening/slot for the wires. Not all buffer tubes do.
I just installed two mod stocks and for the life of me I can't remember what brand they were...getting old... If your buffer tube does not have a opening/slot for the wires you may have to route a "trench" in the bottom of the lower receiver stock stub. Basically where Crunch's wires are positioned in the pic. The wires from the mechbox should lay side by side (i.e. as flat as possible). It is a tight fit. Also, from the looks of it, you're not going to have a whole lot of wire to work with once you cut off that mini connector. Regardless of whether you go with soldering on an extension or rigging up mini spade connectors, try to measure out the lengths such that they are either past the lower reciever stock stub (as in Crunch's pic) or such that they are tucked back into the "hollow" area just behind the mechbox, below the stock stub. Otherwise you'll either have to relieve more material to account for the size of the solder/connector or it just plain won't fit. There's at least one other way to do it but it requires more dremel work. Best of luck. If you are located in the GTA (see...that's why you should fill out your location profile...) and get stuck, PM me if you need a hand. Tys |
June 6th, 2008, 00:52 | #14 |
I believe the other option m102404 is referring to is to cut a small hole at the base of the buffer tube so that you can run your wires right inside the tube instead of under it between the buffer and stock tubes as in my situation.
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June 6th, 2008, 00:55 | #15 |
Tys
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Yup...but shhhh, if we give this guy too many options he'll be asking questions all night long and it's late already...LOL!
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