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July 28th, 2009, 23:29 | #1 |
Dean Connectors
Hi, I bought these:http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/bb-batter...ctor-mini.html
Are they too small for a 11.1V 15C 2200mah Lipo? Should have I gotten the large ones instead? Thanks. |
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July 29th, 2009, 09:50 | #2 |
they'll work fine.
hope you have a very hot solder gun, and "tin" the connectors first. then "tin" the wires, remember to slip the heatshrink on and up the wire before soldering it to the deans! (i often don't!).... and use good, thin solder, with high silver content for electronics. and the flat connector is always positive.... hope this helps. |
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July 29th, 2009, 10:31 | #3 |
I work with deans connectors and wiring all the time and ginnz covered most of what you need to know, try not to touch leads and you'll be fine.
Best of luck! |
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July 29th, 2009, 11:07 | #4 | |
aka coachster
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Quote:
both connectors are 'flat' |
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July 29th, 2009, 11:30 | #5 |
i find a hot gun works best. you need to get the deans plug and wire to heat up fast, and at the same temp to reduce the risk of a "cold solder" joint.
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July 29th, 2009, 13:12 | #6 |
aka coachster
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July 30th, 2009, 20:19 | #7 |
Guys, theses are NOT Dean's ultra.
If you run a stock gun, it will be alright. If you use 9.6v or 400 FPS, get some REAL Dean's Ultra. They cost around 5$ a pair, and are packed individually in white and yellow plastic sealed bags. DON'T BUY ANYTHING ELSE! |
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July 30th, 2009, 21:02 | #8 |
aka coachster
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these are the mini deans. same as these: http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...oducts_id=1265
nothing wrong with them used with a 9.6 or 400fps. |
July 30th, 2009, 22:37 | #9 |
There good for 11.1 V too right?
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July 31st, 2009, 00:16 | #10 |
Nope, not the same at all.
Real Dean's Ultra are rated for 40A cont. China T-Connectors are melting at 30A. "Mini Dean's" are "rated" 25A. I suspect that they start getting soft around 20A. No, a 15A fuse won't fry at 20A. It takes 20A + a certain voltage that our rifles do not reach unless there is a big issue. The connectors are rated at 7.2v. We run them at 9.6v. Using these "Mini T" are about the same as using regular large Tamiya. Normal Dean's are the same size as only the battery side of a large connector. If you can't fit that, the is a problem with your placement/wires. If you still need smaller, go with some Dean's Micro 4R/4B. They are quite smaller, but they hold 30A no problem. The difference is not because of the connector itself. It is because the china copy uses some cheap plastic to mold it. The Dean's plastic is almost impossible to melt, even with the soldering iron. High nylon/glass fiber content is the reason why. To see if the connector is a real one, the finish should be just like CA fiber plastic. Also, the real ones will turn dark red when heated up and will not melt easilly. You will have to hold the iron right on the plastic for at least 10 seconds to melt it. |
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July 31st, 2009, 01:05 | #11 |
I sell genuine Deans Ultra if you're interested.
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July 31st, 2009, 01:46 | #12 |
asexual lumbricus terrestris
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genuine deans come in a pack of male+female ends and 4 heat shrinks good for anything up to around a 10ga wire, or pigtails with 8ga wire, and only 1 connector.
You need a minimum 45W soldering iron. I made the mistake of not pre-tinning it once and the connector came apart in a few weeks. Genuine deans are easier to find than minis, modify deans, or clone cheapo ones. The 2 pack are $4.99, and the pigtails are 6.99 each at where I shop. 45w soldering irons cost $19.99 at the source and 18ga wires cost $2.99. I use bent needle-nose pliers to hold the connector down while I solder it on. When your attaching connectors to a battery, be sure to tape 1 cable down until you have the heat shrink on for the other one. |
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