Protective Coating?

[HKGhost]

Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone has a good recommendation for a protective spray on coating. The reason for me asking is because I want to protect the finish and give the gun a bit more “meat” for durability. I was looking at epoxy paint, polyurethane spray and enamel paint. Has anyone ever tried using any of these product for protection on an airsoft gun? What kind of result did you get and how was the protection? I will really appreciate it if you guy/gals could give me some ideas. This is to protect all of the gun so it has to be a spray on or something in that nature. Thanks everyone

[MoreToasties]

Duracoat matte clearcoat.

I use it once every 3-4 months to keep the paint on my guns, works fine.

[KND]

Originally Posted by MoreToasties

Duracoat matte clearcoat.

I use it once every 3-4 months to keep the paint on my guns, works fine.

Really ? You really need to keep your gun fine all the time.

By the way, back to topic. Just pick up any clear coat like Krylon or other brand, a few code would help you keep the paint but keep in mind that it won't help you stay away from scratch. My gun has scratch every where, it shows how much I used the gun than hanging on the wall.

[L473ncy]

I've actually never painted any of my guns. Except for one time.

Anyways, if it's similar to warhammer then: basecoat/primer (important for paint to bind, I use an off white/grey primer), paint (thin light coats), and a matte clearcoat will make it last (Don't use regular clearcoat or you'll have a shiny gun that looks more like a childs toy).

Don't trust those paints that say "no priming needed", yes you *can* choose to not use primer but it still won't be the same.

Good brands of paint:

- Duracoat
- Krylon Camoflauge
- Krylon Fusion
- Krylon All Pupose
- Rusto (Rustoleum)

One that I'd like to try is:

- Ironlak (a new cheap/econo paint coming out of Australia(old manufacturing plant)/China(new base of operations)). Warning, with Ironlak, due to the cheap manufacturing (from China) I've heard that some of the batches may leak a bit at the nozzle and the nozzle may not have a consistent spray pattern (easily fixed by swapping out for another spray paints nozzle) and the colours may not always be consistent.

[HKGhost]

Thanks for your fast response. Protecting the paint is only a small concern. I was looking to give some parts a bit more meat for durability. Some parts like my full stock is plastic and I just want to add something to make it more durable. I don't mind getting it scratched and scraped. I'm more concern about it's durability. I know I can just buy a replacement but for the time being, I rather make it more durable and save the money for other things. Has anyone use epoxy paint on anything before?

[KND]

Originally Posted by HKGhost

Thanks for your fast response. Protecting the paint is only a small concern. I was looking to give some parts a bit more meat for durability. Some parts like my full stock is plastic and I just want to add something to make it more durable. I don't mind getting it scratched and scraped. I'm more concern about it's durability. I know I can just buy a replacement but for the time being, I rather make it more durable and save the money for other things. Has anyone use epoxy paint on anything before?

Ah ! I understand what you mean now.

You actually don't need any clear coat paint to protect parts like stock, grip or any plastic parts on the gun since those parts are barely break for the time being, I never seen anybody break a full stock yet at the game except you used them to hit somebody or rolling by a truck maybe.

So you shouldn't use any paint to make them durable since they already strong as they are.

[HKGhost]

Cool. Thanks KND. Yea the stock is pretty solid as is. It's not a big concern of mine. I just like things to be more beefy thats all. My body is not metal either so that's another area I was aiming for. For the time being before I find a metal body, I just want to give it some more protection from any kind of bangs or drops. I'm not going to cake it on or anything. Just want it to be more thick to withstand a drop from 4 feet without cracking or worst. Thanks again.

[Papabois]

Just want to add, no matter how good the paint is, it's the prep that makes a paint-job.

First of all, the surface must be conditioned, for the paint / primer to mechanically grip. Shiney surfaces must be "keyed-up" (tooth added, via abrasives). Sand papers, abrasive pads, etc.

Second, these guns are usually laced with silicone lubricants. These must be totally removed," for the paint to stick. Dish detergent for plastics that are solvent based, thinners, reducers, acetones, etc. for metals, and fully cross-linked or thermal-based plastics.

With a good prep, any paint, even the low partical / solvent evapourant paints will work.

Always, ALWAYS test your paint system / method, on a sample part!